Q. I would like to grow a willow tree as a bonsai. The ones sold at nurseries are too large, and I have been unsuccessful at getting cuttings to root in garden soil. Can you help?
— Gerard Crimmins, Lombard
A. Many of the 300 willow (salix) species are suitable for bonsai. One of the most commonly used is weeping willow and propagation is typically easy for most species other than the pussy willow. Try taking 4-inch cuttings of this spring’s branch tip growth once the soft new wood has begun to “harden.”
Remove all but one set of leaves and dip each cutting into rooting hormone. Place them into small nursery pots filled with sterile soilless potting mix that you keep continuously moist.
You might find it helpful to construct a homemade “greenhouse” from a dry cleaner’s bag supported by hangers. Keep the bag open on one end for ventilation and place the cuttings into direct but not scorching sun. It could take several weeks or longer for the cuttings to root.
If you are eager to get started with an established plant, contact the Midwest Bonsai Society for the names of local growers. Join other bonsai enthusiasts at the society’s largest show and sale of the year held Aug. 17 to 19 at the Chicago Botanic Garden, 1000 Lake Cook Rd., Glencoe.
Q. My yard was severely damaged by deer this winter, and I still have as many as seven in my yard at one time. What can I do to deter them?
— A. Millford, Lake Forest
A. Deer are a trying problem for many gardeners. Your efforts to limit damage to your yard need to be year-round, and no matter what you do, expect to lose a few battles. The most successful deterrent is exclusion or building barriers to access.
A solid 8-foot fence will block their view of edible treats and require them to jump at the maximum of their ability. Shorter fences will look riskier to jump if a hedge is planted in front of the fence.
Because deer are creatures of habit, try to prevent them from forming bad ones. Replace plants that are known deer-favorites with deer-resistant plants.
Deer generally avoid plants with sticky, aromatic or hairy leaves. Plants to consider include redbud, barberry and allium. For a list of plants usually not favored by deer, visit www.chicagobotanic.org/plant info/deer.
For plants you can’t bear to replace, try surrounding them with deer-resistant plants. During especially tough winters, deer survive by eating almost anything.
In the fall, consider wrapping prized plants with black mesh. Remove or wrap evergreen vines growing up walls or trees. Once discovered, deer follow stems to the source and beyond, even in deep snow. The mesh is difficult to see, making it a more attractive option, and limits browsing to stems poking through the barrier.
Another solution is to use repellents (available at nurseries and garden centers), especially in spring and early summer when new leaves are tender. Sprays repel by taste and smell. Wear long sleeves, gloves and protect your face while applying.
When you see deer munching on your carefully sprayed deer-resistant plants, take action. A territorial pet is sure to interrupt their meal. All but the hungriest will flee when they see you running and waving your arms.
Finally, after you’ve tried everything, give a nod to the resilience of animals adapting successfully to encroaching development. Many of your plants might recover, giving you another chance to fight and maybe win the ongoing battle.
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Denise Corkery writes for the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe. Write to: Gardening Q&A, Home&Garden, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611-4041; e-mail to home&garden@tribune.com.
