A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BRAVO TAPAS *
2047 W. Division St., 773-278-2727. Night-clubby design meets respectable tapas menu in this concept, a multi-level space with main- and upper-level dining and a downstairs lounge. It’s a neat space, worthy of a little dress-up but with a laid-back vibe, and though the tapas can be hit or miss, the hits are in the majority. It’s best to order as you go along; the kitchen is pretty quick and the narrow tables won’t accommodate more than three tapas dishes at once (which won’t prevent the servers from bringing them out). Recommended: Any empanada, scallops with mashed sweet potatoes, ceviche Bravo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Tapas prices: $6-$10. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
HARO *
2436 S. Oakley St., 773-847-2400. In the sea of quality Italian restaurants that is the Heart of Italy neighborhood sits this improbable upstart, a classic tapas restaurant that is homey and unpretentious and something of a magnet for young adults in the later hours. It doesn’t take much to fill up this 47-seater, so reservations are a must, unless you arrive early. Warm-weather lunches are a good option, too. Recommended: Chicken roulades with Iberico cheese, tortilla espanola, oxtail-stuffed piquillo peppers. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat. Tapas prices: $5-$8. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
TEPATULCO **
2558 N. Halsted St., 773-472-7419. Chef/owner Geno Bahena is back with this lively Lincoln Park restaurant. Fans of Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed) will find one or two similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. There’s plenty of indoor seating here, as well as a spacious outdoor courtyard. And on weekend evenings, a deejay starts up the music and the place really gets lively. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
