It’s not news that cupcakes are hot.
It’s that they’re still hot.
“They’re our No. 1 pastry seller and have been for the past couple years,” said Pamela Fitzpatrick, executive baker at Fox & Obel, 401 E. Illinois St.
Stephanie Samuels, owner of Angel Food Bakery, 1636 W. Montrose Ave., concurred — and she even tried not selling them when she opened her business two years ago. But customers kept looking past Samuels’ delectable cakes, and pies, and tarts, and asked for … cupcakes. “I caved,” Samuels admitted, laughing. “There are certain retro desserts that I sell a lot of, but really the biggest sellers are the cupcakes.”
Demand is such that shops selling only cupcakes have opened across the country (Swirlz and Cupcakes are two Chicago examples). The thinking goes that this “cupcraze” has been spurred by grownups rediscovering the childhood pleasures of these sweet, petite treats.
Emphasis on petite.
“[A cupcake] looks like it’s kind of guilt-free,” said pastry chef Warren Brown, host of “Sugar Rush” on Food Network. “It’s not as much of a commitment.”
But it’s one thing for grown-ups to choose a chocolate cupcake over a chocolate eclair or a chocolate chip cookie. It’s another thing when a bride and groom choose a tower of cupcakes over that time-honored, multitiered wedding cake.
“Our wedding was less traditional,” said Chicagoan Jennifer Thorsen, 30, the week before her wedding at Blue Water Grill in July. Thorsen and her groom, Cleatus Murdaugh III, 33, hosted a cocktail reception with food stations that included a tower of orange and chocolate cupcakes with buttercream frosting made by Samuels. “We didn’t want to do the traditional sit-down dinner. I wanted it to be more of a party. The cupcakes played into that very well.”
Fitzpatrick, too, is catering cupcake nuptials. “I have people call me every other week for cupcake trees for their wedding,” Fitzpatrick said. “People are crazy for this pastry.”
The home cook is among the crazy, judging by the products and cookbooks catering to the trend.
“The cupcake trend really started to explode with us last year with the addition of the silicone bakeware,” said Kathy Grocott, bakeware buyer for national kitchenware store Sur La Table. “There are some vendors out there who have done a really good job of keeping the evolution of cupcakes going.”
Namely, Woodridge-based bakeware manufacturer Wilton Enterprises, whose Silly-Feet silicone cupcake holders and their clown-feet supports have charmed bakers across the country.
“We surprised ourselves on that one,” said Nancy Siler, vice president of consumer affairs at Wilton. “We knew they were going to be popular but we didn’t realize they were going to be that popular.”
“That’s been a really fun piece that goes beyond the pastel paper cups that you get at the grocery store,” Grocott said. The product also underscores the cupcake’s versatility, she noted. “You can be goofy and creative, extravagant and elegant. It appeals to such a broad skill base.”
Speaking of goofy, we’ll soon be hearing the pitter-patter of holiday-themed Silly-Feet: witches’ boots for Halloween and Santa boots for Christmas.
But before you decorate cupcakes you’ve got to make them.
No question, cupcakes are about cute. They’re about nostalgia. What they aren’t about, necessarily, is quick. Terms like “easy” and “fast” often are bandied about when cupcakes are discussed. Where did this come from? A 13-by-9-inch chocolate-chip cake that needs no frosting is quick. Twelve precious little cakes that require their own precious little outfits are not.
And even if you frost fast, doling out that batter into muffin tins isn’t as easy as pouring into one big pan.
As for diet-friendly, well, cupcakes are about portion control only if you eat just one. And they’re rarely low-calorie.
Full disclosure: The above three paragraphs were written by a cake lover who mildly resents the cupcake’s growing world domination. Admittedly, the rant was contested by almost everyone we talked to. (Almost.)
Mini-cupcake molds create treats with a reasonable calorie count, Siler said. And decorating can be easy, Brown contended: “Even if you mess up your frosting, just sprinkle jimmies on it. You can just put a strawberry on it, or a chocolate [Hershey’s] Kiss on it.
“People have an unreasonable fear that they’re going to mess it up,” Brown added. “The cupcake is not going to fight back.”
Except when it comes to stealing the spotlight from every other contender in the pantheon of pastry.
Siler predicted that the cupcake boom is far from over. “I really don’t think they’ve peaked yet,” she said. “I think we’ve got another two years before people start looking for the next big thing.”
Until then, the current little thing shows no sign of backing off.
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Can do, cupcake!
Cupcakes are a pastry paradox — so easy to eat, so messy to make. Here are some ways to minimize the splatter of the batter:
–Portion out batter with a spring-loaded ice cream scoop to minimize drips. Pamela Fitzpatrick, executive baker at Fox & Obel, noted that the scoops will maintain volume consistency, so cupcakes will cook in the same amount of time.
–Stephanie Samuels of Angel Food Bakery recommended greasing the tops of muffin tins (she uses butter) so any overflowing cupcakes will release more easily.
–Use paper or silicone liners, Samuels said. “The paper keeps the cupcake moister longer. Once the icing is on, there’s less cake that’s exposed to the air.”
–Fill liners about two-thirds to three-quarters, Dede Wilson writes in her terrific book, “A Baker’s Field Guide to Cupcakes.” “This gives you a very large, voluptuous cupcake,” she writes.
–Always let cupcakes cool completely before frosting.
–Dip the knife or spatula in hot water before frosting for a smoother look, Brown said.
–For a bounty of decorating ideas and tips, visit the Wilton Web site, cupcakefun.com/ideas/.
— Renee Enna
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“At the Beach” cupcakes
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 23-30 minutes
Yield: 24-28 cupcakes
The “beachy keen” frosting mimicking sea and sand is from “A Baker’s Field Guide to Cupcakes,” by Dede Wilson. The buttery cupcake is adapted from a recipe from Pamela Fitzpatrick, executive baker at Fox & Obel. Piping gel, sold in craft stores and at wilton.com, will tint the frosting without thinning it.
Butter-cake cupcakes:
7 large egg yolks
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 3/4 cups cake flour
2 1/4 cups super-fine sugar
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 1/4 teaspoons each: salt, cornstarch
2 sticks (1 cup) plus 1 tablespoon butter, softened
Frosting:
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, room temperature, cut into small pieces
4 cups confectioners’ sugar, plus an additional 1 2 cup if needed, whisked before measuring
1/ 4 cup milk, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
Blue piping gel or food coloring
3 cups graham cracker crumbs
Paper umbrellas
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Whisk together the egg yolks, one-quarter of the buttermilk and vanilla in a medium bowl; set aside.
2. Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and cornstarch in a large bowl. Add butter and remaining buttermilk; beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until combined, about 2 minutes. Slowly add egg mixture in three batches, beating about 20 seconds on medium speed after each addition. Do not overmix.
3. Divide batter about two-thirds full among paper-lined muffin tins; shake gently to settle batter. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center shows just a few crumbs, 23-25 minutes. Cool pans on rack 20 minutes; remove cupcakes from pans. Cool completely.
4. For the frosting, beat the butter with an electric mixer on medium-high speed in a medium bowl until creamy, about 1 minute. Gradually add 1 cup of the confectioners’ sugar, beating until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of the sugar and 2 tablespoons of the milk; beat until smooth. Repeat with another 1 cup sugar and remaining 2 tablespoons of the milk. Add the remaining 1 cup of the sugar and vanilla; switch to high speed. Beat until very light and creamy, about 4-5 minutes. If frosting is too soft, add additional sugar. Tint to desired hue.
5. Frost the cupcakes. To decorate, place graham cracker crumbs in a wide bowl; hold each cupcake over bowl. Using a spoon or your fingers, sprinkle crumbs over half of the frosting to mimic sand. Make peaks (for waves) in the blue frosting with the back of a spoon. Insert umbrella.
Nutrition information per serving (based on 24):
342 calories, 33% of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 81 mg cholesterol, 55 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 371 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
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Mexican “hot” chocolate cupcakes
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Cooling time: 30 minutes
Yield: 18 cupcakes
Cinnamon and ground red pepper add subtle magic to these yummy cupcakes, created for us by Stephanie Samuels of Angel Food Bakery.
Cupcakes:
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter
3 cups granulated sugar
3 eggs
1 container (8 ounces) sour cream
3 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons each: baking powder, baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups hot coffee
Frosting:
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened
1 box (1 pound) confectioners’ sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla
Spicy chocolate glaze:
1 package (8 ounces) bittersweet chocolate
1/ 2 cup whipping cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon corn syrup
1/ 8 teaspoon each or to taste: ground red pepper, cinnamon
Cinnamon Red Hot candies, optional
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. For cupcakes, melt chocolate and butter in microwave-safe bowl in 30-second intervals at 50 percent power until chocolate has melted and ingredients blend, stirring between intervals, about 2 minutes; set aside to cool. Meanwhile, combine the sugar and eggs in large bowl; beat with a mixer on low speed. Slowly beat in the chocolate-butter mixture. Stir in the sour cream; set aside.
2. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and salt in a small bowl. Beat in flour mixture alternately with the coffee to the chocolate mixture, beginning and ending with the flour. Spoon batter into lined muffin tins three-quarters full; bake until cupcakes spring back to the touch, 15-18 minutes. Let cool, about 30 minutes.
3. For icing, beat the butter with an electric mixer on medium speed until creamy. Beat in the confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon until smooth; beat in the vanilla. Set aside.
4. For the frosting, combine chocolate and cream in a microwave-safe bowl. Cook in 30-second intervals at 50 percent power until chocolate has just melted, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the butter, corn syrup, red pepper and cinnamon until mixture is smooth and shiny; let glaze cool slightly.
5. Spread frosting on cupcakes. Dip tops into glaze. Refrigerate to set, about 30 minutes. Decorate with cinnamon candies.
Nutrition information per serving:
632 calories, 46% of calories from fat, 34 g fat, 20 g saturated fat, 100 mg cholesterol, 85 g carbohydrates, 6 g protein, 259 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
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Red, white and blueberry cupcakes
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Chilling time: 1 hour
Yield: 12 cupcakes
Celebrate berry season with cupcakes that contain blueberries and raspberries, inside and out. The whipped cream frosting means these need refrigeration. Adapted from “The Cupcake Deck,” by Elinor Klivans.
Cupcakes:
1/ 3 cup fresh blueberries
1 1/4 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
4 egg whites, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 cup each: whole milk, fresh raspberries
Frosting:
2 containers (1 2 pint each) whipping cream
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup fresh raspberries
1/3 cup fresh blueberries
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. For cupcakes, put blueberries in a small bowl; stir gently with 1 tablespoon of the flour. Set aside. Sift the remaining flour, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl; set aside.
2. Beat the sugar and butter in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth and lightened in color, about 2 minutes. Beat in the egg whites in two additions until blended. Add the vanilla and almond extracts; beat 2 minutes until batter is smooth but foamy.
3. Lower mixer to low speed. Add half of the reserved flour mixture, mixing just to incorporate; mix in milk. Mix in remaining flour mixture, beating just until the batter is smooth. Gently fold in the reserved blueberries and the raspberries.
4. Fill paper-lined muffin tins with 1/4 cup of the batter, to about 1/2 inch below the top. Bake until tops feel firm and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Cool 10 minutes in the pan on a wire rack. Remove cupcakes from tins; cool completely on rack.
5. For frosting, beat the cream, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until firm peaks form. Spread about 3 tablespoons of the frosting over each cupcake; gently spoon several raspberries and blueberries over the top. Refrigerate at least 1 hour.
Nutrition information per serving:
343 calories, 58% of calories from fat, 23 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 32 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 116 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
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Pineapple upside-down cupcakes
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Cooling time: 1 hour, 5 minutes
Yield: 12 cupcakes
Let the food do the decorating with these easy treats, adapted from “The Best Bake Sale Ever Cookbook,” by Barbara Grunes.
1 can (20 ounces) pineapple chunks, drained, 1 2 cup juice reserved
1 stick (1/2 cup) plus 1 2 tablespoon unsalted butter, room temperature
2/3cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place drained pineapple chunks on a double layer of paper towels to drain completely; set aside.
2. Melt 1/3 cup plus 1/2 tablespoon of the butter in a saucepan; mix in brown sugar. Divide mixture evenly among 12 greased or sprayed muffin tins. Arrange the pineapple chunks decoratively on top of sugar mixture; set aside.
3. Combine the flour, sugar and baking powder in a large bowl; beat in the remaining butter and reserved pineapple juice with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth, about 2 minutes. Beat in the egg.
4. Spoon the batter over the fruit in the tins, filling each cup three-quarters full. Bake until a tester inserted in middle of a cupcake comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Cool cupcakes in pan 5 minutes. Place a wire rack on top of the tin; invert the cupcakes onto the rack so the pineapple is on top. Cool completely, about 1 hour.
Nutrition information per serving:
243 calories, 31% of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 39 mg cholesterol, 41 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 58 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
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First, take a cup…
For something so trendy, cupcakes reach far back into history.
Cupcakes date to the 19th Century, according to The Oxford Companion to Food, which offers two sources for the name: They got their moniker from the cuplike vessels these desserts were baked in, or from the American measuring system.
“Just as recipes for poundcake called for a pound of this and that, so recipes for cup cake would involve a sequence of cup measures,” the book notes.
However, the earliest “cup cake” was just another large cake, not a gaggle of small ones — until 1828, when a cup cake recipe instructed cooks to bake the batter “in little tins.”
The world’s arguably most famous cupcake, the one from Hostess, dates to 1919. According to the company’s Web site, it took a while to evolve into the one we’re familiar with: “It was baking executive D.R. ‘Doc’ Rice, who in 1950 added the signature seven squiggles and vanilla-creme filling — a move that created the best selling snack cake in history.”
R.E.
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Cupcake couture
Manufacturers are capitalizing on the cupcake’s rise to fame. Here are just a few products catering to the cupcake crowd:
Silly-Feet rule
Wilton now sells witches’ feet for Halloween ($10 for four at Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores, Michael’s Stores and wilton.com). Santa feet will be sold closer to Christmas at Jo-Ann, Sur La Table and wilton.com.
Take me, I’m yours
Oneida’s Bake and Take carrier has a 12-capacity nonstick pan and a 12-capacity stacking tray so cooks can bake and tote up to 24 for a smoosh-free trip ($20 at laprimashops.com).
Cupcake giant
Wilton’s Large Dimensions Cupcake Pan makes a two-layer bundt cake. Available in September for $27 at Sur La Table, and in October at wilton.com).
Tower of cute
Good Cook’s 24-cupcake display stand comes apart so it’s easy to store when not in use ($15 at laprimashops.com).
Puzzle magic
Roshco’s Create n Celebrate Pull Apart Cupcake Molds make cupcakes that, put together like a puzzle, create a butterfly, car or other images ($15 at target.com and pfaltzgraff.com).
Fancy totes
Wilton’s cardboard boxes turn homemade treats into lovely gifts (package of three 4-capacity boxes, $5, at Michael’s and wilton.com).
Easy does it
KitchenAid Snap-In Muffin Pan has 12 removable silicone cups that let you fill, bake and remove for serving, storing and/or cleaning. ($30 at amazon.com)
R.E.
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renna@tribune.com
