A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St., 312-337-6070. Chef Guiseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever, whether he’s devising trompe l’oeil caviar from tapioca and squid ink or matching a hash of broccoli and marcona almonds to goat-cheese croquettes. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, chamomile-dusted quail, venison with black-cardamom mole. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
THE GAGE ***
24 S. Michigan Ave., 312-372-4243. A gastropub is an establishment that combines casual pubby atmosphere and serious food, and this spacious restaurant, across the street from Millennium Park, certainly qualifies. Owner Billy Lawless presides over the chummy bar, Dirk Flanigan produces stellar cooking from a perfect Scotch egg to mildly gamy elk chops, and Hillary Blanchard oversees the imaginative desserts. Recommended: Rabbit salad, sea bream with oxtail, “French toast” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
LE LAN ***
749 N. Clark St.; 312-280-9100. The arrival of chef Bill Kim has invigorated and focused the kitchen of this River North restaurant; hot and sour soup becomes haute cuisine in Kim’s hands, as do any number of prosaic sounding, brilliantly executed dishes. Exemplary service and a food-friendly wine list are significant pluses. Recommended: Pork-shrimp spring rolls, white kimchi, lemon-coconut creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $20-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
PANE CALDO **
72 E. Walton St.; 312-649-0055. Though it sits on one of the Gold Coast’s most tony streets, this 70-seat jewel is anything but ostentatious, though it’s comfortable enough. Veteran chef Maurice Bonhomme adds a French lilt to the nominally Italian menu, seen in his complimentary amuses and his complex, understated sauces. The wine list is impressive. Recommended: Lobster mille-feuille, black-grouper ceviche, mushroom risotto, chocolate trio. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $31-$37; tasting menu $69-$95. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: No smoking.
PARLOR *
1745 W. North Ave.; 773-782-9000. This 36-seater offers laid-back atmosphere and more skillful cooking than the modest-sounding menu and budget-friendly prices would suggest. Service can be spotty, especially at the always-crowded weekend brunch when the kitchen can get overtaxed, but on the whole there’s a lot to like here. Recommended: Chicken and waffles, s’more bomb. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking Thu.-Sat.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
