Thick, chunky chowder really satisfies and chases the chill, as those who know French might guess from the name, which comes from chaud, meaning warm.
I can’t think of a better soup to serve any time you want a superb bowl of chowder.
My first American-style chowder, which I enjoyed at a restaurant in Boston back in the 1970s, came as a big surprise. When I ordered it, I expected something like the classic French soups I knew.
What arrived was chock-full not just with clams but also chunks of potato and strips of smoky bacon. They all stood out in sharp contrast to a base of seafood broth enriched mostly with milk and thickened with the flour-and-butter paste known as roux. This was a soup every bit as satisfying as a stew, something you could serve either as an appetizer or as a main course.
America’s standard for great chowder became my own. That’s not to say, however, that I didn’t also add a few chef touches. I first steam fresh clams in a mixture of water and wine seasoned with a bouquet garni, a bundle of fresh herbs and spices. Then I reserve the clams and the strained liquid while I prepare the soup base.
To make that base as flavorful as possible, I like to include good quality smoked bacon; but you also can leave it out if you’d prefer a meat-free version. I also use a mixture of diced aromatic vegetables — celery, carrots, onions or leeks, and garlic — which I saute gently to develop their flavor.
Next comes some flour, which combines with the fat in the pan to make the roux thicker. Then I add the strained liquid, some milk and a touch of cream for richness. Simmered until the liquid thickens, the soup is finished with the chopped clams before being seasoned to taste and served with crunchy homemade croutons.
Clam chowder
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
15 black peppercorns
4 cloves garlic
3 sprigs each: fresh thyme, fresh parsley
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup white wine
1 1/2 pounds littleneck clams, cleaned
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
2 strips smoked bacon, chopped
1 small onion, diced
2 inner ribs celery, diced
1 small carrot, diced
1/4 cup flour
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 russet potato, peeled, diced
1 cup milk
Juice of 1 lemon
Pinch ground red pepper
1/3 cup whipping cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
Croutons, see note
1. Place peppercorns, 2 cloves of the garlic, thyme and parsley in the center of a square of cheesecloth. Gather up the corners; tie with string. Place in a large saucepan; add water and wine. Heat to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add clams; cover. Cook until clams open, about 5 minutes. Strain clams through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into a bowl; reserve the cooking liquid and clams.
2. Meanwhile, mince remaining 2 cloves of the garlic; set aside. Return the saucepan to medium-high heat. Add the olive oil; heat. Add the bacon; fry until crispy, about 4 minutes. Add the onion; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add the minced garlic; cook 30 seconds. Add the celery and carrot; cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour into the pan, stirring to make a loose paste; add more oil if mixture seems dry. Stir in the strained clam liquid and thyme sprig. Heat to a gentle boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 30 minutes. Add the potato, milk, lemon juice and red pepper; cook until the potato is tender, about 15 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, pull the clams from their shells. Chop clams; return the clams to the saucepan. Stir in cream, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until the clams are heated through, 3-5 minutes. Serve in bowls; garnish with croutons.
Note: To make croutons, heat oven to 400 degrees. Cube 1 loaf (1 pound) sourdough bread; place in a bowl. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons olive oil to coat lightly; toss. Sprinkle with parsley, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste; toss. Spread cubes on a baking sheet; bake until golden, about 10 minutes; cool.
Nutrition information per serving:
430 calories, 35% of calories from fat, 17 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 29 mg cholesterol, 56 g carbohydrates, 13 g protein, 873 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
