Licorice was as bad as a Halloween trick when Alinea’s Grant Achatz was a kid. Now, the superstar chef considers licorice a treat, and it has played an important role on the menu of his Chicago restaurant.
“As a kid I hated black licorice. Hated it, hated it, hated it,” he said. “Now I love it. I love the flavor.”
Achatz has introduced patrons to licorice in all sorts of dishes, from squab with watermelon to braised short ribs to poundcake and even cotton candy. But don’t expect to find any black jelly beans in his kitchen or boxes of that Good & Plenty candy that made Choo Choo Charlie’s train run in those old TV ads. Achatz powers his dishes with a “superintense” unsweetened licorice-root extract imported from Italy. The extract comes in solid form, and looks like a 5-inch black crayon.
Licorice may be poised for the fast track these days as more Americans discover — or rediscover — its distinctive taste. Chefs like Achatz are in the forefront using various forms of licorice to push the culinary envelope.
“I think we’re in a licorice moment,” said Dorie Greenspan, the New York-based cookbook author, baker and licorice lover. Not only is she finding licorice on menus more often, but her blog writings ( www.doriegreenspan.com) on the subject have generated strong reader response. “I find it a fascinating flavor,” she said. Greenspan has heard some in the food industry wondering aloud if licorice is the “sixth” taste after sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami, a Japanese term describing a savory or meaty quality.
Greenspan keeps herself well-stocked with French licorice drops but said she was first exposed to licorice through her mother, who would eat Switzer’s and Twizzlers.
“I’m not sure if bitter licorice was available here,” she said. “About 20 years ago I started seeing European licorice, the quality stuff, in New York.”
“There wasn’t much good licorice around for so long,” said Elizabeth Erlandson, co-owner of Licorice International in Lincoln, Neb. The Web site (licoriceinternational.com) sells 160 types of licorice from 13 countries.
To Erlandson, “good” licorice means a product made with real licorice extract, no artificial flavors and no anise. It should have an intense flavor similar to a strong root beer.
“People over 50 tend to know good licorice,” she added. “They tasted it when they were young and remember it as a flavor they enjoy. People under 50 may remember grandparents sharing a licorice candy with them.”
Erlandson said licorice is proving to be a big seller around Father’s Day because “men who grew up in the 1950s and ’60s remember what good licorice tastes like.”
Chef Carrie Nahabedian of Naha is a licorice fan. She said the big challenge is still finding the “real stuff.”
“You get a group of individuals who love licorice and they’ll say, ‘If I could only find a good piece of licorice.’ You have to search,” she said.
Hoping to make the job easier is Michael Switzer, who has reintroduced his family’s eponymous line of licorice candies after buying back the brand name from Hershey’s. Switzer, whose company is based in St. Louis, said he’s finding more people in their 30s getting into licorice.
“I think it’s a more sophisticated taste. I think that’s why it resonates with people,” he said, equating licorice’s appeal to dark chocolate.
One thing is certain: No one is wishy-washy about licorice.
“Licorice is a controversial flavor,” Greenspan said. “It’s one of these ‘love it or loathe it’ things. Say ‘licorice’ and some people scrunch up their faces.”
Flavoring many products
Purists consider the only true licorice to be black licorice but pastry chef Alex Stupak of New York’s WD-50, an Alinea alum, doesn’t know why that color got linked to licorice. Top-quality licorice root is yellow underneath a smooth brown skin, he said.
Harold McGee in “On Food and Cooking; The Science and Lore of the Kitchen,” writes that licorice comes from the roots of a plant called Glycyrrhiza glabra, native to Southeast Asia. The name “licorice” evolved from the Greek for “sweet root.” The root contains a steroidlike chemical called glycyrrhizic acid, which McGee said is 50 to 150 times sweeter than table sugar.
Licorice extract is used in foods, tobacco and herbal medicine. Licorice is said to help ease sore throats and coughs, clear up skin conditions and soothe the stomach. Kate Klotz, Midwest public relations specialist for Whole Foods Market, reports that customers are buying the root to chew as a digestive. Licorice also plays a role in beermaking.
Greg Fischer of Chicago’s Beverage Art Brewer and Winemaker Supply said that licorice is sometimes used when making stouts and dark beers. Sticks of licorice extract, the same used by Achatz, add flavor to the beer and promote a longer lasting head of suds.
Licorice’s ability to foam has inspired Stupak to experiment with it in powdered form. “I’ve been adding licorice powder to water and getting incredible foams,” he said. “Now I’m looking for ways to stabilize it.”
While brewing-supply stores sell licorice extract sticks, the Terra Spice Co. (terraspice.com) of Walkerton, Ind., sells the brand used by Achatz and a growing number of other chefs, including Nahabedian, Giuseppe Tentori of Boka and Mindy Segal of Hot Chocolate.
The company also offers 6-inch pieces of the actual woody root, ground licorice root and a liquid licorice extract.
“We have a lot of demand for anything licorice in flavor,” said Judy Shertzer, Terra’s general manager.
Versatile player
Chicago chefs are using licorice as a flavor element in sauces, ice creams, cookies and more.
While many people may think of Italy when it comes to licorice thanks to fennel and anise-flavored liqueurs, Achatz noted that there’s also a “natural” pairing with Chinese cuisine, especially braised meat dishes where the “dark flavor” of licorice can blend in.
Nahabedian got turned onto the extract sticks by her sous chef, John Peters. She finely grates the stick over a boned roasted squab finished with a sauce made of port and pink peppercorns.
“It imparts a very fragrant flavor,” she said. “There’s a strong licorice taste but it’s not overbearing. It complements the squab nicely, especially when it is paired with Black Mission figs and Italian plums.”
Tentori at Boka likes using licorice with braised short ribs because the extract adds an earthier flavor. “It’s a little sweet so you can play with the wine pairing,” he said.
Segal grates licorice extract into shortbread and is working on a recipe for poached pears, licorice and white chocolate.
Still, it’s as a candy that licorice is most identified. Good & Plenty, first produced in 1893, is the oldest branded candy in the United States, according to Hershey’s. Hershey’s also makes the popular Twizzlers twists.
Chicago has strong ties to licorice. The American Licorice Co. began here in 1914. Now located in Bend, Ore., the company makes a variety of candies, including Red Vines, Snaps, Sour Punch and Super Ropes candy. And, for a time, the now-defunct Beatrice Foods of Chicago owned the Switzer’s licorice brand.
Sales stats provided by The Nielsen Company show that dollar sales have risen about 7 percent in the last four years, with sales volume is down about 9 percent, reflecting the rising costs of making the candy.
Erlandson takes a rosier view. She said licorice is rebounding in popularity because it’s seen as a healthier, fat-free snack with fewer calories or salt than other snacks.
At Licorice International there’s never really a down time or a slow season. “If you like licorice, you like it year-round,” Erlandson said.
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Licorice shortbread
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Chilling time: 1 hour
Baking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 48 cookies
Mindy Segal of Chicago’s Hot Chocolate restaurant developed this recipe. She uses grated licorice root extract to provide the great flavor.
1 piece (1/2-inch-long) licorice root extract, grated
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 sticks (1 cup) chilled unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/2-inch slices
2 cups flour
1/8 teaspoon coarse salt
1. Combine the licorice and sugar in a spice grinder; process until combined.
2. Place butter and the sugar mixture into a medium bowl; beat with an electric mixer on medium speed just until smooth, 2-3 minutes. Add the flour and salt to bowl; lower speed to low. Beat until dough forms a ball, about 8 minutes.
3. Roll the dough into a round, about 1 /4-inch thick. Cut into 2-inch rounds or desired shape with a cookie cutter. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan; refrigerate 1 hour.
4. Heat oven to 275 degrees; bake until cookies just begin to brown at the edges, about 15 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
60 calories, 57% of calories from fat, 4 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 6 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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Black licorice short ribs
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours, 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This recipe is an adaptation of a dish served by chef Giuseppe Tentori at Boka in Chicago. At the restaurant, the chef pairs the ribs with grilled beef tenderloin, a purple potato pave and a mushroom crepe. Tentori uses sticks of solid licorice root extract for flavoring.
2 1/2 pounds bone-in beef short ribs
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 each, chopped: carrots, celery ribs
1 yellow onion, chopped
8 cloves garlic
4 sprigs thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1/2 cup tomato paste
1 1/2 cups red wine
1 can (14 ounces) chicken broth
1 stick licorice root extract
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper to taste; set aside. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat; sear ribs on both sides until browned, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the ribs to a plate; set aside.
2. Add the carrots, celery and onion to the Dutch oven; cook, stirring, until vegetables brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, rosemary and tomato paste; cook, stirring, until garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Pour in wine and chicken broth; heat to a boil, stirring up browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the licorice and the ribs. Cover the pan; place in the oven. Reduce heat to 325 degrees; bake until ribs are tender, about 3 hours.
4. Remove the ribs from the Dutch oven to a deep platter; set aside. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Skim the fat from the surface. Pour the liquid over the ribs.
Nutrition information per serving:
585 calories, 63% of calories from fat, 41 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 102 mg cholesterol, 19 g carbohydrates, 34 g protein, 1,286 mg sodium, 4 g fiber
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Roasted squab with pink peppercorns, licorice and mint
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 26 minutes
Yield: 2 servings
This recipe is adapted from the version that chef/owner Carrie Nahabedian serves at Naha restaurant in Chicago. Look for squab in specialty markets or order it from a butcher. If squab is unavailable, substitute a small duck or chicken and adjust for longer cooking time.
2 fresh squabs, wing tips removed, reserved
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
2 thyme sprigs
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup port wine
1/2 teaspoon pink peppercorns
1 piece (3/4 inches long) licorice root extract stick, finely grated, or 1/4 teaspoon liquid licorice extract
2 sprigs mint
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Season the squab with salt and black pepper. Place 1 thyme sprig and 1 tablespoon of the butter inside each bird. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in an oven-safe skillet. Add squab; cook, turning to brown on all sides, about 6 minutes. Add the reserved wing tips.
2. Place the skillet in the oven; cook squab, basting occasionally with pan drippings and remaining butter, until tender and desired doneness, about 15 minutes for medium-rare. Remove birds from skillet; let rest 5 minutes. Discard excess fat in skillet. 3. Meanwhile, add the port to the skillet; heat to a boil over medium-high heat until thickened into a syrup, about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through a strainer into a medium bowl; discard solids. Stir in 1 /4 teaspoon of the peppercorns and all but 1 /4 teaspoon of the grated licorice extract (or all of the liquid extract) into the sauce.
4. Drizzle sauce over birds. Garnish with the mint and remaining 1 /4 teaspoon of the pink peppercorns; sprinkle with remaining 1 /4 teaspoon of the grated licorice.
Nutrition information per serving:
320 calories, 89% of calories from fat, 32 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 59 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 302 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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KNOW YOUR LICORICE
Licorice root extract in sticks: Can be melted into stews, grated over finished dishes or chopped and incorporated into sauces. Sold at stores selling beermaking products or online. In the Chicago area, contact Beverage Art Brewer and Winemaker Supply, 10033 S. Western Ave., 773-233-7579, bev-art.com. Terra Spice Co. in Walkerton, Ind., sells licorice root extract sticks to many chefs in Chicago and elsewhere. To order, call 574-586-2600 or visit terraspice.com.
Licorice root powder: Ground up dried root of the licorice plant. Alex Stupak of New York’s WD-50 uses it to enhance dessert foams. It also can be used to flavor puddings, sauces and baked goods. At Terra Spice Co.
Licorice extract liquid: An alcohol-based product with the flavor coming from the licorice plant’s roots. Use like an extract to provide a boost of licorice flavor. At Terra Spice Co.
Raw licorice root: Often chewed raw as a digestive, steeped in liquid like tea or ground into a seasoning powder. Whole Foods Market sells the roots in its bulk spice sections. For store locations, go to wholefoodsmarket.com. The Spice House carries chopped licorice root at its stores: 1512 N. Wells St., 312-274-0378; 1941 Central St., Evanston, 847-328-3711. Or visit www.thespicehouse.com.
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Licorice substitutes
Other foodstuffs have a flavor similar to licorice; you may be able to use some in place of licorice in recipes.
Anise: A member of the parsley family, anise seeds and leaves carry that licorice taste. Use in savory or sweet dishes. Anise seeds are used to flavor a number of liqueurs, such as pastis and ouzo. Indian cooks offer the seeds as a digestive after a meal. The extract often is used in Italian biscotti.
Anise hyssop: A licorice-flavored member of the mint family. Use in salads, fruit dishes, soups and stews. Also called licorice mint.
Fennel: The seeds, ferny fronds and crisp bulb of the fennel plant are used in cooking. As a vegetable, the bulb can be braised, sauteed, sliced into soups, or used raw in a salad. The greenery can be snipped and used as a garnish. The seeds are available whole or ground; they are used in savory and sweet dishes.
Hyssop: Another licorice-flavored member of the mint family, hyssop (not to be confused with anise hyssop) can flavor salads and soups.
Star anise: This star-shaped brown pod comes from a Chinese evergreen tree. The pod, whether whole or broken into pieces, can be used to flavor foods, particularly slow-cooked stews, and tea. Ground star anise is used in a Chinese blend called five-spice powder.
Source: The New Food Lover’s Companion
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wdaley@tribune.com
