A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BISTRO MONET **
462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn; 630-469-4002. For those who love French tradition at reasonable prices, in a room so quiet that one can rediscover the lost art of dinner conversation, Bistro Monet is your new favorite restaurant. Chef/owner Michel Saragueta has turned the former Les Deux Autres (and Les Deux Gros prior to that) into an affordable oasis of country-French charm, with laid-back and friendly service. Recommended: Chicken-liver mousse, turban of sole, skate wing, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
BLU 47 *
4655 S. Martin Luther King Drive; 773-536-6000. Despite a total lack of exterior signage on its building, the 47th Street Market Place, this prettily decorated Bronzeville restaurant, across the street from the Harold Washington Cultural Center, draws plenty of customers, thanks to a kitchen that cranks out reliable, modestly priced Southern-American staples, and friendly if leisurely service. No-cover jazz music plays Thursday nights and during Sunday brunch, the latter featuring a bargain $19.95 buffet. Recommended: Southwestern chicken tarts, spinach-goat cheese salad, Bayou catfish, chipotle-bbq short ribs. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$23.95. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended Thursdays, Sundays. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking evenings, no smoking.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St.; 312-337-6070. Chef Giuseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever, whether he’s devising trompe l’oeil caviar from tapioca and squid ink or matching a hash of broccoli and marcona almonds to goat-cheese croquettes. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, chamomile-dusted quail, venison with black-cardamom mole, barramundi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
CHALKBOARD ***
4343 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-477-7144. Gilbert Langlois (ex-Rushmore, SushiSamba Rio) brings his creative-comfort-food act to the Lincoln Square neighborhood with this 62-seat charmer, a beautiful dining room full of uncluttered elegance, enlivened by the occasional appearance of the chef’s son, Owen. Arrive 15 minutes early and spend the time hunting for a metered parking space. Recommended: Grilled quail with “secret” stuffing; beet salad, striped bass, fried chicken, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon, Wed.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$28. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
COOPER’S HAWK *
15690 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park; 708-633-0200. This novel concept pairs a 300-seat American restaurant and a fully equipped winery that produces more than two dozen distinct varieties. The winery half of the equation functions very well, producing uncomplicated, drinkable and affordable wines with a wide range of flavor profiles. The restaurant half is more problematic; though service is well-informed and the kitchen is fast, too many dishes are saddled with powerful sauces in copious quantities — which are not nearly as wine-friendly as they ought to be. Stick with the simplest preparations, request sauces on the side, and you should do fine. Recommended: Ribeye steak, salmon with mushroom duxelles, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.99-$29.99. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet, no smoking.
THE GAGE ***
24 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-372-4243. A gastropub is an establishment that combines casual pubby atmosphere and serious food, and this spacious restaurant, across the street from Millennium Park, certainly qualifies. Owner Billy Lawless presides over the chummy bar, Dirk Flanigan produces stellar cooking from a perfect Scotch egg to mildly gamy elk chops, and Hillary Blanchard oversees the imaginative desserts. Recommended: Rabbit salad, Gage burger, lamb duo, sea bream with oxtail, “French toast” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
HARO *
2436 S. Oakley St.; 773-847-2400. In the sea of quality Italian restaurants that is the Heart of Italy neighborhood sits this improbable upstart, a classic tapas restaurant that is homey and unpretentious and something of a magnet for young adults in the later hours. It doesn’t take much to fill up this 47-seater, so reservations are a must, unless you arrive early. Warm-weather lunches are a good option, too. Recommended: Chicken roulades with Iberico cheese, tortilla espanola, oxtail-stuffed piquillo peppers. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat. Tapas prices: $5-$8. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
LE LAN ***
749 N. Clark St.; 312-280-9100. The arrival of chef Bill Kim has invigorated and focused the kitchen of this River North restaurant; hot and sour soup becomes haute cuisine in Kim’s hands, as do any number of prosaic sounding, brilliantly executed dishes. Exemplary service and a food-friendly wine list are significant pluses. Recommended: Pork-shrimp spring rolls, tea-smoked duck, mahi-mahi with pineapple-cucumber relish, white kimchi, lemon-coconut creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $20-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MAIJEAN **
30 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills; 630-794-8900. With colors evocative of a Provence sunset and undulating Art Nouveau decorative touches, Maijean (pronounced May-ZHEEN) is a breath of country-French air, an ideal setting for chef/owner Nadia Tilkian’s well-grounded but contemporary French cuisine. An affordable wine list and quick-on-their-feet service are pleasant bonuses. Recommended: Sweetbreads, salad Lyonnaise, striped bass with kohlrabi puree, champagne-poached peaches. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
OLD TOWN BRASSERIE ***
1209 N. Wells St.; 312-943-3000. Purists may sniff that this cozy restaurant isn’t a “true” brasserie (it’s not), but longtime restaurateur Bob Djahanguiri (Yvette, Toulouse) and acclaimed chef Roland Liccioni (Le Francais, Les Nomades) have partnered to create an outstanding dining experience. Dishes that starred on Liccioni’s Le Francais menus are here — at greatly reduced prices — along with simpler fare (escargots, salade Lyonnaise) that are just as satisfying. It wouldn’t be a Djahanguiri restaurant without live music, which is featured near the bar on Fridays and Saturdays (after 10 p.m.). Recommended: Duck consomme, artichoke terrine, poached salmon, lamb-sweetbreads duo, hazelnut souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
RICCARDO TRATTORIA
*** 2119 N. Clark St.; 773-549-0038. Riccardo Michi was an executive chef with the Bice restaurant group for many years, and Lincoln Park locals are thrilled to be getting Bice-quality food at neighborhood-trattoria prices — one of the big reasons that it’s hard to get a reservation at this narrow 50-seater. Michi’s robust, rustic cooking is first-rate and attitude free; he’s as happy to make a sinfully rich spaghetti carbonara as he is to laboriously create tripe Florentine, a signature dish that has developed something of a cult following. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio, orecchietti with boar sausage, lobster risotto, ricotta cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SAGE GRILLE
** 260 Green Bay Rd., Highwood; 847-433-7005. An attractive American bistro with wide-ranging appeal, Sage Grill has enough high-end dishes to appeal to luxury diners but plenty of options under $20 and a prix-fixe option (four courses, $45), among other customer-friendly touches. And don’t skip Brenda Manfredini’s desserts. Recommended: Balsamic-glazed quail, lobster gnocchi, striped bass, espresso sundae. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
SHIKAGO **
190 S. LaSalle St.; 312-781-7300. Kevin and Alan Shikami, the brothers behind the River North restaurant Kevin, have established Loop roots with this restaurant in the heart of the city’s financial district. Chef Kevin Shikami is again mixing French and Asian cuisines, but at Shikago, the Asian side takes center stage, in such dishes as bulgogi-seasoned ribeye steak and duck breast in miso broth. (A few Shikami favorites, such as his tuna tartare, remain.) A good portion of the restaurant is devoted to a carryout area, just steps away from the sedate dining room; that, and the TV screens broadcasting a distracting jumble of market reports, fashion montages and film clips, makes for an at-times dissonant dining experience. The restaurant’s name, a contraction of Shikami and Chicago, virtually assures frustration among (potential customers searching via the Internet or Directory Assistance. But the food is worth the effort. Recommended: Shikago maki roll, short rib spring rolls, Thai beef salad, green-tea shortbread. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
TABLE FIFTY-TWO **
52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
TAVERN AT THE PARK
** 130 E. Randolph St.; 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this two-story contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here, which generally consists of familiar, comfort-food dishes with the occasional, gentle twist. Handsome interiors and energetically friendly service are major pluses, and if you steer clear of the steaks (good though they may be), you’ll be surprised at how economical dinner can be. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TEPATULCO **
2558 N. Halsted St.; 773-472-7419. Fans of chef/owner Geno Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed) will find one or two similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. There’s plenty of indoor seating here, as well as a spacious outdoor courtyard. And on weekend evenings, a deejay starts up the music and the place really gets lively. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
VIAND ***
155 E. Ontario St.; 312-255-8505. Steven Chiappetti, the one-time chef of Mango has attached himself to this attached-to-a-hotel dining room just steps east of Michigan Avenue and is cranking out the sort of unaffected, flavor-packed cuisine that made him a hero to downtown foodies years ago. Whimsical, prop-filled presentations make gazing at Chiappetti’s food almost as fun as eating it. Recommended: Lamb riblets, pork and shrimp wontons, roasted chicken, lamb tagine, Junk-Food plate. Open: Dinner, lunch, breakfast Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
