Lamb and Easter go hand in hand. Traditionally that’s because ewes give birth in early spring just before the events of the Christian Holy Week take place (early this year with Easter falling on March 23). But the marketing of lamb is changing, as Illinois farmers such as Phillip Shields and Lynn Davis turn to direct selling of their lamb all summer at area farmers markets or to individual customers, including some of Chicago’s well-known chefs.
Shields raises his lambs on grass (switching to a grain mixture when they get close to six months) at his Country Cottage Farm in Fisher, about 115 miles south of Chicago. He has sold his lamb products for three years at Chicago’s Green City Market in Lincoln Park and is now selling directly to chefs such as Paul Virant at Vie in Western Springs and, in Chicago, Dean Zanella at 312 Chicago and John Caputo of A Mano. He also sells to a few area specialty markets such as Marion Street Cheese Market in Oak Park and True Nature in Chicago. Although Country Cottage is not a certified organic farm, Shields uses no antibiotics on the sheep and his hay is not sprayed with pesticides, he said.
Davis, of Antioch, concentrates on selling her lamb to individuals rather than markets in her area. “Right now I only have five ewes. … I’m just getting back into selling lamb after my husband died recently,” she explained. She has loyal customers who order quarters, sides and even whole lambs for freezing.
“It’s mostly by word of mouth,” she said.
Davis raises Corriedale sheep, “a good dual-purpose breed” that she said also produces a medium-grade wool that’s popular with spinners. The meat is best when the lamb is between 4 and 6 months old, she added. “That’s when you have the best flavor and texture.”
Davis and Shields are just two of about 500 lamb farmers in Illinois, according to a February report by the National Agriculture Statistics Service, a department of the USDA.
“There were 70,000 sheep raised in Illinois in 2007, [which] includes all types of sheep and lambs. Of this number 10,000 were market lambs,” said Jane Zeien, executive director of the Illinois Lamb & Wool Producers Association.
The University of Illinois lists 55 lamb producers (on its Market Maker site) who now do direct marketing of their lambs in the state.
“It’s a growing niche, marketing direct to consumers at farmers markets and through direct sales,” said Peter Orwick, executive director of the American Sheep Industry Association, based in Centennial, Colo. “Sheep farms closer to major cities have done very well in the last several years.
“When you’re buying from a local grower, you’re buying from someone who really knows his own land. Many revel in the uniqueness of the flavors of regional lamb,” he said.
And yet, lamb consumption figures are nowhere near those of beef or pork.
“Lamb consumption per capita in the U.S. is typically about three quarter pound per person per year,” Orwick said. That’s like eating only three Quarter Pounders a year. But, he added, “lamb consumption statistics are rising as large groups of immigrants arrive in the States from the Middle East, North Africa and other areas where lamb is commonplace.”
Though Americans may not consume much lamb, Orwick noted, “more than 40 different breeds are raised in the U.S., ranking us as one of the top countries with the highest number of breeds.”
Chicago-area chefs don’t have any lamb consumption problems, though. Most high-end restaurants carry at least one lamb entree on their menu.
At the newly expanded Marion Street Cheese Market, lamb cuts such as steak, legs and racks are sold. The market’s executive chef, Michael Pivoney, likes the “delicate but balanced” flavor of the Country Cottage lamb sold there: “It’s small-production lamb and leaner than most, so it will cook quicker.” He recommends cooking it “low and slow.”
“Brown it evenly first, then finish it in a 300-degree oven,” he said. One of his favorites is lamb steak served with a riesling butter sauce.
For an Easter entree, farmer Lynn Davis likes to keep her lamb roast simple: “I like to do a boneless rolled leg roast,” she said. “But keep the heat low, 325 degrees, and never serve it well-done.” She prefers it medium-rare for the best flavor and texture.
Phillip Shields’ wife, Deborah, has similar advice. She often cooks leg of lamb roasted with rosemary and garlic and served with the traditional mint sauce.
“I like to roast at low temperatures, 290 to 300 degrees,” she said. “It seems to give the best flavor and texture when you slice it.”
Her favorite side dishes include sweet potatoes and a spring green salad, which make nice contrasts to the lamb. Sometimes she makes a raspberry vinaigrette to drizzle over the lamb instead of mint sauce. It’s a menu she may well prepare again for Easter this year, she said.
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Lamb cooking times
Here are cooking times from the USDA for different cuts of lamb to reach medium-rare (about 140 degrees).
* For roasts, use a low oven temperature of 325 degrees. Add about 5 minutes more per pound for medium doneness. Let roasts rest 5-10 minutes after cooking; the temperature will continue to rise about 5 degrees.
* Lamb leg, bone-in, 5-7 pounds: 20-25 minutes per pound.
* Lamb leg, boneless, rolled, 4-7 pounds: 25-30 minutes per pound.
* Shoulder roast or shank leg half, 3-4 pounds: 30-35 minutes per pound.
* Chops, rib or loin 1-1 1/2-inch thick: broil/grill 7-11 minutes per pound.
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New retail cuts
Case-ready lamb has “really come in, in the last 10 years, at the grocery store,” said Peter Orwick, executive director of the American Sheep Industry Association. That means cuts that are vacuum-sealed at the packing plant. “Five or six major companies across the country now sell in retail cuts, so you’re seeing a greater variety of cuts.”
New cuts that you may find at the supermarket:
*Boneless preseasoned whole or half legs
*Center leg steaks
*Lamb sirloins (from the leg)
*Lamb tenderloin, a very tender, boneless cut
*Lamb shanks
*Both ground lamb and stew meat, for stew or kabobs
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Buying lamb direct?
When buying lamb directly from a producer, here are some questions you should ask, suggested Peter Orwick, executive director of the American Sheep Industry Association:
When do your sheep typically lamb? “That tells you how old they are when they’re sent to the packing plant.”
What’s their feed base? Are they pasture-fed or grained? “That helps you know what flavor you prefer.”
Why is your lamb special? “Most farmers are really proud of what they’re doing. They’re happy to talk about the breeds they’ve chosen, how they feed their lambs and so on.”
Here are Web sites to help you find lamb producers near you:
www.marketmaker.uiuc.edu/index.asp
www.agr.state.il.us
Sources of lamb from the story:
Lynn Davis, Antioch
847-395-3868
Phillip Shields
Fisher, Ill.
217-202-7708
countrycottagefarms@yahoo.com
www.countrycottagefarm.com
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Leg of lamb with rosemary, garlic and raspberry vinaigrette
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours, 40 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from a recipe by Deborah Shields, co-owner of Country Cottage Farm in Fisher, Ill. Serve with asparagus and a baby green salad tossed with more of the raspberry vinaigrette.
1 boneless leg of lamb roast, 4-5 pounds
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Raspberry vinaigrette:
1/4 cup raspberry vinegar
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Fresh raspberries, optional
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Unroll the roast. (If roast has been refrigerated, let stand until almost room temperature, about 45 minutes.) Coat roast with the olive oil. Lay out flat, with the less fatty side up. Sprinkle with garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Roll up; tie with kitchen twine. Roast 10 minutes; reduce heat to 300 degrees. Roast until thermometer reads 135 degrees for medium-rare, about 2 1/2 hours, or to desired doneness. Let stand 15 minutes before slicing.
2. Meanwhile, for raspberry vinaigrette, combine vinegar, salt and pepper to taste in a jar. Let stand until serving time. Add olive oil; cover tightly with lid. Shake until emulsified.
3. Serve lamb slices topped with a drizzle of the vinaigrette. Store any leftover vinaigrette in the refrigerator for another use. Garnish with fresh raspberries, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving: 491 calories, 62% of calories from fat, 34 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 141 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 43 g protein, 395 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
Lamb shanks with white beans and roasted endive
Preparation time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Standing time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 2 hours, 30 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This recipe, adapted from “The Good Housekeeping Cookbook,” makes a very generous serving of meat; if you like, you can shred the meat from the bones to stretch this recipe to 6 to 8 servings.
Beans and lamb:
8 ounces dried white beans such as great Northern beans
4 lamb shanks, about 1 pound each
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
Coarsely ground pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 carrots, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
1 can (14 1/2 ounces) chicken broth
1 cup water
6 sprigs rosemary
Roasted endive:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
4 heads Belgian endive, halved lengthwise
1. Combine the beans and enough water to cover by 2 inches in a large saucepan; heat to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook 3 minutes; remove from heat. Cover; set aside 1 hour. Drain; rinse beans.
2. Sprinkle the lamb with 3/4 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the shanks; cook, turning occasionally, until brown on all sides, 12-15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.
3. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Add the garlic, carrots and onion to the Dutch oven. Cook, stirring, until lightly brown and tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the flour, tomato paste and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add the wine. Heat to a boil, stirring up the browned bits on the bottom; cook 5 minutes. Add broth and 1 cup of water; heat to a boil. Stir in the beans and 2 sprigs of the rosemary. Return the shanks to the Dutch oven; heat to a boil. Cover; transfer to the oven. Cook 1 hour. Turn shanks; cover. Roast until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour.
4. Meanwhile, for the endive, combine the oil, salt and pepper in a bowl; add the endive, tossing to coat. Arrange endive, cut sides down, on a baking pan. Roast until browned on bottom, 1 hour.
5. Transfer shanks to a platter; discard rosemary. Skim fat from the liquid in the Dutch oven. Spoon beans and cooking liquid onto 4 plates. Top each with a lamb shank, 2 endive halves and a rosemary sprig.
Nutrition information per serving: 764 calories, 42% of calories from fat, 35 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 170 mg cholesterol, 47 g carbohydrates, 62 g protein, 1,585 mg sodium, 17 g fiber
Roasted lamb steaks with riesling butter sauce
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from a recipe by executive chef/partner Michael Pivoney of Marion Street Cheese Market, Oak Park. The sauce also can be used for a leg roast or rack of lamb.
4 lamb leg steaks, 8-10 ounces each, about 1 1/2-inches thick
1 teaspoon each: coarse salt, cracked pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
Riesling-butter sauce:
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, sliced into small pieces, plus 1 tablespoon
3 shallots, sliced
2 cups riesling wine
1/2 cup golden or dark raisins, optional
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
Cracked pepper
1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat; cook the lamb, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a rack in a roasting pan; roast until thermometer reads 130 degrees for medium-rare, about 30 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, for sauce, melt the 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat; add the shallots. Cook, stirring, until translucent, 2-3 minutes. Add the wine, raisins and thyme. Cook until the mixture is reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Whisk in the butter pieces one at a time to thicken sauce. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pass the sauce at the table to drizzle over steaks.
Nutrition information per serving: 624 calories, 75% of calories from fat, 52 g fat, 24 g saturated fat, 173 mg cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 35 g protein, 696 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
Lamb roast with glazed roasted vegetables
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from a recipe from the American Lamb Board.
2 pounds boneless lamb leg roast, trimmed
1/2 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground pepper
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup each: balsamic vinegar, orange juice, reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon olive oil
8 small red potatoes
6 pearl onions
3 carrots, cut into diagonal slices
12 large mushrooms
6 cherry or cocktail tomatoes
1 green pepper, cored, ribbed, cut into strips
1 can (14 1/2 ounces) chicken broth
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper; transfer to a rack in a large roasting pan. Combine the garlic, vinegar, juice, soy sauce and olive oil in a large bowl. Add the potatoes, onions and carrots, mixing to coat. Arrange vegetables in the pan around the roast; reserve remaining vinegar mixture. Roast the lamb and vegetables 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 325 degrees; roast 25 minutes.
2. Toss the mushrooms, tomatoes and green pepper in the reserved vinegar mixture; transfer with slotted spoon to the roasting pan, reserving any remaining vinegar mixture. Roast lamb until meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion of lamb reads 140 degrees for medium and the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer the lamb and vegetables to a platter; cover loosely with foil. Let stand 10 minutes.
3. Add 1/2 cup of the broth to the roasting pan, scraping up bits. Combine the cornstarch and the remaining broth in a small bowl; add to the pan. Stir in the remaining vinegar mixture. Heat to a boil on top of the stove over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until mixture is thickened, about 3-4 minutes. Serve the sauce with vegetables and lamb.
Nutrition information per serving: 455 calories, 27% of calories from fat, 14 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 71 mg cholesterol, 49 g carbohydrates, 33 g protein, 706 mg sodium, 9 g fiber
