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Waffle irons tend to gather dust in the cupboard, but you’ll get a lot more use out of yours when you realize waffles aren’t just for breakfast. They make a lovely dessert base and, with a savory batter, are terrific for lunch or dinner.

Waffles depend on leavening, usually in the form of baking powder and/or baking soda. Beating and folding in the egg whites lends extra lift. As with muffins and quick breads, avoid overmixing, which results in a tough, chewy product.

Tips

If shopping for a waffle iron, choose a non-stick electric model; they’re virtually foolproof.

Ladle batter onto each section of the grid rather than placing it in the middle. The grids should be full but not overflowing.

Waffles are done when the iron stops giving off steam. Carefully lift the lid; if the waffles resist at all, they need a bit more cooking.

Keep the first batch warm in a 200-degree oven while you make the rest. Set them directly on the oven rack.

Dewey’s seafood waffles

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 4 minutes per batch

Yield: 6 servings

This recipe is adapted from Dewey LoSasso, chef-owner of Miami’s North One 10 Restaurant. He uses lobster, but you may use 1 cup lump crabmeat or 8 ounces cooked, chopped shrimp in place of the lobster.

Waffles:

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted

2 cups flour

1/4 cup corn meal

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon each: baking soda, salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 lobster tails, about 6 ounces each: cooked, shelled, diced

1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped

4 eggs, separated

2 cups buttermilk, at room temperature

Garlic-herb butter:

1 stick (1/2 cup) salted butter, at room temperature

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tablespoons minced fresh herbs (parsley, chives, basil, oregano, and/or tarragon)

Freshly ground pepper

1. Grease the waffle iron with a small amount of melted butter; heat. Sift the flour with the corn meal, baking powder, baking soda, salt and pepper to taste in a large bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the lobster (reserving the rest for serving), onion and basil; stir to combine. Whisk the egg yolks, buttermilk and remaining melted butter in another bowl. Beat the egg whites in a third bowl, until stiff but not dry; fold the whites into the batter.

2. Ladle about 1/3 cup batter onto each section of the waffle grid, spreading almost to edges. Close lid; cook until no steam emerges from waffle iron, 3-5 minutes. Remove to platter; keep warm. Repeat with remaining batter.

3. Meanwhile, for garlic-herb butter, beat the butter, garlic, herbs and pepper to taste in a bowl until light and fluffy. Serve waffles topped with a dollop of garlic-herb butter and sprinkled with the remaining lobster.

Nutrition information per serving: 600 calories, 54% of calories from fat, 36 g fat, 21 g saturated fat, 270 mg cholesterol, 44 g carbohydrates, 26 g protein, 943 mg sodium, 2 g fiber