When I need a weekend away, I go to college. Not for the all-nighters, roommate hassles or coin-operated laundry.
For the green expanses, fabulous places to eat (budget meals and haute cuisine), free Wi-Fi and fascinating history.
The college town as vacation spot concept was bequeathed to me by a friend living in Baltimore whose sister had moved to Evanston.
When Susan, husband and children pointed the station wagon westward, they mapped the route with colleges along the way and turned monotonous highways into an adventure. This wasn’t about college admissions; Susan had figured out that most colleges and their surrounding towns are idyllic respites from the road.
My affinity for college towns may reflect my own childhood growing up in one. The nearby Swarthmore College campus was a wonderful playground for sledding when it was cold, flying kites and watching the pathetic football team when it was warm. We attended theatrical and musical performances, went to art exhibits, used the library and generally felt smart.
Of course, like most teenagers, when it came time for college, I couldn’t wait to escape. As it turns out, South Hadley, Mass., where I went to college (Mt. Holyoke), also is an ideal spot to visit. One child could head to the hockey rink, the other to the riding stables. Adults could play tennis, golf or look around the art museum. Cheap goods abound, from the deli and coffeehouse to Chinese and Mexican eateries.
Finally, and best of all, colleges are full of cool people with real character.
Who knows, maybe colleges can curb tuition costs by becoming family vacation destinations.
OXFORD
Oxford, Miss.
Often referred to as the art center of the South, Oxford is a pretty walking town west of the Mississippi Delta and home to the University of Mississippi. Ole Miss sits on a beautiful, leafy campus within walking distance of downtown.
Oxford also has been home to artists and writers, including William Faulkner, who moved to Oxford in 1902, when he bought his famous estate Rowan Oak. Faulkner was drawn to the rich history of this Greek revival-style home, which was built in the 1840s by a colonel from Tennessee when Oxford was still a small frontier settlement. Faulkner’s daughter donated Rowan Oak to the university in 1972. It’s now open to the public six days a week, which gives travelers plenty of opportunities to check out this valuable piece of American literary history. Among the estate’s attractions is the outline of the author’s Pulitzer Prize-winning novel, “A Fable,” scribbled on the wall of his study, and the wooded area around the house known as Bailey’s Woods, perfect for long walks.
Be sure to also make time for a stroll around the town square, which features tons of regional shops and restaurants, including legendary food and music hot spot Proud Larry’s, known for hosting bands such as Animal Collective and Marah as well as local musicians. Stop by for a cold beer and the popular Fat Larry pizza, topped with sausage, beef, pepperoni, Canadian bacon, peppers, onions, mushrooms and olives (proudlarrys.com).
For a quieter scene, try Square Books, an independent bookstore owned by Mayor Richard Howorth. The store features two packed, cozy floors of book browsing, and a third-floor cafe attached to a 90-foot-long balcony, perfect for lounging with a cappuccino or flipping through a Faulkner classic. Go to squarebooks.com for a complete history of this independent bookseller and its connection to the vibrant local literary scene.
KALAMAZOO
Kalamazoo, Mich.
This western Michigan city of 77,000, located approximately halfway between Chicago and Detroit, is home to Western Michigan University and the smaller liberal arts school Kalamazoo College.
The city is known for its popular breweries and brew pubs, including Bell’s, operated out of a state-of-the-art brewery in nearby Comstock. Attached to the beermaking facility are a cafe and store that sell Bell’s beer, merchandise and home-brewing supplies. The facility is open seven days a week for shopping, tours and tastings of the renowned, seasonal beers.
For a place to stay, check out the beautiful, Queen-Anne style Henderson Castle, constructed in 1895 and listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. This Victorian mansion, originally built for the family of a wealthy, local manufacturer, was converted into a bed and breakfast by a local couple in 2005. They offer elegant, antique-furnished rooms and a cottage equipped with a kitchen for longer stays or bigger groups. Visit hendersoncastle.com for rates and reservation information. At night, head downtown for live music at Wayside West, Bayview or Club 411. For a more upscale, classy time, The Union Cabaret and Grille is the perfect spot to listen to live jazz performed by musicians from Western Michigan University. Chef Eric Gillish is known for serving up quality American food with a thoughtful, creative twist (think portobello fries and Thai flank steak).
Despite the name, there is no real animal zoo in Kzoo, but if you’re traveling with the kids, be sure to check out the Kalamazoo Air Zoo, an interactive museum of aviation history with rides such as Journey Beyond, a 3-D simulation of a space mission.
PALO ALTO
Palo Alto, Calif.
Nestled in the beautiful San Francisco Bay area, Palo Alto is home to Stanford University and the headquarters of a number of Silicon Valley powerhouses, including Hewlett-Packard and Facebook. Like most of the Bay Area, Palo Alto has cool, wet winters and warm, dry summers, so check the forecast before planning your trip because this Pacific Coast city is a great place for outdoor enthusiasts.
Undiscovered Country Tours, (udctours.com) based in Palo Alto, is a great outfitter for world-class road bike tours. They classify all their rides based on the distance and the amount of climbing, so all skill levels are welcome. The guided tours can last up to six days, and there’s a variety of terrain to choose from, including rides on the scenic Pacific Coast, through California’s peaceful, world-famous wine country or through a Redwood forest.
To find a place to stay, look for something along the busy El Camino Real, a long road which runs through the city, separating it from the rest of Stanford University. The quaint, no frills Hotel California (hotelcalifornia.com) is modestly priced and offers a free shuttle to Stanford and a continental breakfast. It’s also right next to Palo Alto’s “Avenue of the Arts” — also known by its official name, California Avenue — a bustling shopping area that hosts a number of public arts projects from local artists.
If you’re traveling with any techies, they might be interested in one of Palo Alto’s most famous historic landmarks, Apple founder and CEO Steve Jobs’ garage, birthplace of the first Apple computer, located at 2066 Crist Drive And when it’s time to eat, swing by the California Cafe in the historic Stanford Barn, a converted winery that offers outdoor seating and elegant, rustic charm.
OBERLIN
Oberlin, Ohio
Drive one hour southwest of Cleveland, and you’ll find yourself in Oberlin, home to the eponymous liberal arts college and music conservatory. This town of 8,000 is a down-to-earth place that has been a bastion of liberal activism for years. As early as 1852, Oberlin served as an active stop on the Underground Railroad, eventually helping thousands of people to freedom.
At the Oberlin Heritage Center, a local museum and historical society, visitors can get a glimpse of this storied past with tours of historic sites, including the 1866 Monroe House, the 1836 Little Red Schoolhouse and the 1884 Jewett House. While adults learn about Oberlin’s role as a hotbed of abolitionism, women’s activism and scientific discovery, kids will the love being transported back to the 19th Century with the hands-on, one-room period schoolhouse (oberlinheritage.org).
Be sure to swing by downtown for a drink or a burger at the popular student hangout The Feve Bar and Grill. Try the downstairs room for solid drink specials, or the more laid-back dining area upstairs, where the menu features traditional grill fare. If you’re looking for breakfast, try the popular Black River Cafe, also downtown. This place can get crowded on the weekends, but the pancakes and omelets made from fresh, local products are worth the wait. When it’s time to crash, the college-owned Oberlin Inn is a solid choice. This simple, no-frills inn is the main lodging option in town and offers a dining room, a popular bar and limousine service to the Cleveland Hopkins Airport.
AMHERST
Amherst, Mass.
Amherst is home to Amherst College, Hampshire College and the University of Massachusetts Amherst, three of the Five Colleges. The two remaining colleges, Mount Holyoke and Smith, are in nearby South Hadley and Northampton, respectively, which makes Amherst a perfect destination for families with college-bound students.
But the college tours shouldn’t be the only thing drawing you to Amherst, a town rich in history and older than the country itself. Since the first permanent English settlements were established here in 1727, this pretty New England town in the Connecticut River Valley has been home to Emily Dickinson, Robert Frost and generations of students from all over the world.
If you find yourself here, a visit to the Nun of Amherst’s family estate is a must. Dickinson’s historic home is in the center of town and open to the public for tours of the rooms where the reclusive poetess spent most of her life (emilydickinsonmuseum.org). Also check out the Yiddish Book Center, a non-profit dedicated to preserving and celebrating Yiddish books and culture (yiddishbookcenter.org), and the Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art, a museum of children’s book illustrations.
Emily’s Amherst Bed and Breakfast is a perfect spot to rest up, halfway between Amherst College and the University of Massachusetts. Emily’s is right in downtown Amherst, just a few blocks from great restaurants and stores and the town common. The rooms are expansive and rustic and look out onto beautiful gardens and treetops (amherstemily.com). For delicious pan-Asian cuisine and a fun night out, try Zen in Northampton, a local favorite with an interesting menu and reasonable prices.
— Joe D. Babcock
