The nods to India or Southeast Asia in this dish earn their own nods to full-flavored, even “spicy” wines as happy balances or table mates. Not much within the dish itself to watch out for, winewise, except your possibly heavy hand with the lime juice (adding a lot of acidity will require a wine with commensurate acidity).
If, while searing the curry-dusted tenders, you mistake your timing and burn the spicing, you’ll introduce a bitter note that any tannic red will accentuate, so tread softly into cabernet land. Better to opt for voluptuous whites or soft, fruity reds.
The food:
Curried pork tenderloins
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Rub 2 pork tenderloins, about 1 pound each, with 3 tablespoons curry powder. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in an oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Sear tenderloins on all sides, about 5-7 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven; roast until cooked through. Let pork rest, 5 minutes. Slice; squeeze lime juice over slices. Serve with steamed white rice. Makes: 6 servings
The wines
2010 Reata Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Calif.:
For the money, beaucoup flavor and persistence; a smoky note floats atop dark cherry aromas and tastes, with no tannins to rub you the wrong way; terrific for the money. $30 (less direct from winery)
2010 William Hill Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Calif.:
In that blowzy, big-busted style, but with the wood restrained nonetheless, for a creamy, layered, juicy white that is the sauce — more than the wine — it was designed to be. $25
2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Wash.:
Persistent of flavor as long as its name; interplay between light fruits (pear, green apple, lemon) and verdant, herby notes; whispers of sweet, nothing cloying; acidity like baling wire; amazing value. $15
— Bill St. John, special to Tribune Newspapers
