In the almost frenzied fervor for all things Grandma used to make, refined desserts have taken a back seat to more rustic sweets like pie and doughnuts. Not that such treats can’t also be elegant (and incredibly delicious) in their simplicity. But in a matchup between the most picture perfect apple pie and a petit gateau crafted in the French pastry tradition, when it comes to artistry, the pie hardly stands a chance.
When chef Peter Rios opens Alliance Patisserie in River North in the old Grahamwich space (615 N. State St.) in late November, it’s not just a hankering for something sweet but an appreciation for the finer things, that will draw people to his shop.
Rios says Americans’ tastes are growing increasingly discerning as well as adventurous when it comes to restaurants, and thankfully, diners have so many choices. “But desserts have been lagging in that arena,” he says.
Rios thinks that’s changing. “Desserts were part of a restaurant or part of a hotel experience. I think chefs are appreciated now. We’re getting a little more attention. There can be great pastry chefs venturing out and opening their own locations.”
The owner of Alliance Bakery in Wicker Park for seven years describes the new shop as “more of a pastry boutique, specifically modern French pastry.” He says he’ll be more selective in what he offers, hoping to match the feel of the neighborhood, with its art galleries and design houses. Fans of Rios’ decadent macarons in innovative flavors (fig with balsamic reduction, anyone?) will be able to get the cookies at the new location.
“Any career pastry chef is always looking to be innovative and create something unique,” Rios says. “I don’t know if we’re all trying to redefine pastry classics, but at the same time, we’re never content doing just basic, standby desserts.” He adds that it’s typical of pastry chefs who work in hotels and restaurants to want to push the envelope with their creations.
