Grace Wong/Chicago TribuneRamen Takeya devotes an entire section of its menu to "otsumami" or drinking foods — nestled among them the Japanese street snack takoyaki. The ball-shaped snacks are made with a batter that crisps up into a golden shell while remaining creamy and soft inside. Hidden away are Chiclet-size pieces of octopus, tiny surprises in the center of each ball. Six balls are served in a red and white paper boats and drizzled with sweet and salty Japanese barbecue sauce, creamy mayo, aonori (dried seaweed) and fishy-but-in-a-good-way bonito flakes (cured fish shavings). Between the crispy-meets-creamy texture and the sweet-meets-salty flavors, it's easy to see how a refreshing beer (or soda, for non-drinkers) would pair nicely. $6. 819 W. Fulton Market, 312-666-7710, ramentakeya.com — Grace Wong
Nick Kindelsperger/Chicago TribuneMaybe it's that I'm not a Russian tycoon, but my experience with caviar has been limited at best. I've certainly never ordered it before at a restaurant, though that's mostly because I don't have wads of hundreds padding my wallet. Fortunately, Heritage has changed that. While you can spend over $200 for some imperial Siberian caviar, what makes this West Town restaurant so exciting is that it offers a range of roe at much more reasonable prices. For $20 you can get 15 grams of bright orange rainbow trout roe from Washington state. Each small sphere pops dramatically in your mouth with a rush of salty, sweet sea flavor. Plus, it comes with a host of toppings, including chopped egg, onion, capers and creme fraiche, along with some very dark rye bread and freshly made potato chips. 2700 W. Chicago Ave., 773-661-9577, heritage-chicago.com — Nick Kindelsperger
Grace Wong/Chicago TribuneThough the fried mushrooms and cheese curds may be one of the more well-known appetizers at Daisies, the asparagus toast is a dark horse, innocently billing itself as just another toast when its anything but. A slice of Publican Quality Bread's sourdough Pullman loaf is the base, soaking in the melted butterlike bone marrow that's poured over the dish. The bread is topped with funky and sweet blue cheese, garlicky chives, beautifully charred tender chunks of faintly sweet asparagus and peppery fronds of parsley. It comes pre-cut, so you won't have to worry about sawing through the bread to share with your dining companions. $16. 2523 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-661-1671, daisieschicago.com — Grace Wong
Nick Kindelsperger/Chicago TribuneMany of the best dishes at Twain take a neglected Midwest classic and transform it into something very different, from a version of ants on a log filled with duck liver mousse to a bone marrow sloppy joe. So I'm a bit surprised that the dish I keep coming back to after multiple visits is something that's pretty much exactly what you'd imagine. The spoonable corn pudding gets a generous portion of tender cider-glazed pork shoulder, which also means that all the meaty juices of that pork seep into the pudding. While you'd think that this would get too heavy and soft, some bright pickled onions and crunchy peanuts add much needed relief. $11. 2445 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-697-8463, twainchicago.com — Nick Kindelsperger
Nick Kindelsperger/Chicago TribuneBright orange and as delicate as just-steamed eggs, uni takes the commanding role of this stunning appetizer at Rick Bayless's Lena Brava. Each bite unleashes a wave of deep sea brininess, which can make you feel like you're a mere stone's throw from the Pacific Ocean, instead of smack dab in the middle of the West Loop. It's joined by plump pieces of Hawaiian albacore tuna, creamy avocado and a shockingly green ramp sauce. All of this rests on a base of pan de campo, a hearty and slightly smoky flatbread baked in the restaurant's wood-fired oven. It's not exactly the cheapest way to start a meal here, but it's hard to think of a tastier one. $28. 900 W. Randolph St., 312-733-1975, rickbayless.com/restaurants/lena-brava — Nick Kindelsperger
Louisa Chu/Chicago TribuneZachary Engel just opened Galit, the self-described Middle Eastern restaurant, about a month ago. It's already one of the hottest destinations in the Wrightwood Neighbors neighborhood, and not just because of the live cooking fire from which sparkling embers beguile and beckon. The salatim, or salad, includes a feast of small dishes, to share as an appetizer or enough for a full meal. While they'll constantly change, recently Engel offered golden Yemenite, Bulgarian and Israeli pickled cauliflower, peppers and cucumber; crumbled feta and fresh coridander over cipollini onions a la greque; labneh cupping a pool of olive oil dusted with minty hyssop, tart sumac and sesame; saucy and spicy ezme, the Turkish tomatoes and peppers with chives, walnuts and garlic; plus wood-roasted Brussels sprouts with blackened crisp leaves enhanced by orange blossom and sunflower seeds. When I asked how much to order another gloriously warm and surprisingly weighty puffed pita, my server said, "Nothing." You may be tempted by endless pita too, but please respect their generosity though trust me, I understand. $22. 2429 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-360-8755, galitrestaurant.com — Louisa Chu
Josh Noel/Chicago TribunePity poor baba ganoush. Its popularity pales compared to Middle Eastern dip sibling hummus – but is arguably just as tasty and approachable when done well. Andersonville's legendary Taste of Lebanon knows how to do baba ganoush well (hummus, too), even if it's nothing fancy, arriving on a basic white Styrofoam plate with a pool of olive oil in its center and a sprinkling of chile pepper. It's smoky, creamy and hearty in eggplant's rustic way. It also splendidly accents any sandwich from the menu. (My 4-year-old and I gleefully dipped our chicken shawarma wraps in our plate of baba.) Available as a side dish, in a wrap of its own or as part of one of two veggie combos. $5.19 for the appetizer. 1509 W. Foster Ave., 773-334-1600. — Josh Noel
Grace Wong/Chicago TribuneAn integral part of the Asian American growing up experience is convening at boba shops. To balance out the sugary and creamy drinks, salty and fried snacks like popcorn chicken were a staple. At Hello Jasmine, the popcorn chicken is made in the traditional Taiwanese way. It starts with pieces of chicken that are marinated in five spice before being battered and plopped in the fryer that's already frying some basil leaves. The resulting crispy chicken pieces are dusted with more five spice and chile powder and served piping hot with skewers. Each bite is fragrant and bursting with salty flavor. You'll have to be careful not to burn your mouth, so approach cautiously until you're sure the interior has cooled down. $8.25. 2026 S. Clark St., 312-988-0920. — Grace Wong
Grace Wong/Chicago TribuneWhen Shalin Shakya told me that the momo:cha at Vajra was inspired by what he makes at home, I knew I had to try the Nepalese dumplings for myself. Although they are not made with water buffalo meat (yet), Vajra's goat renditions are not to be missed. Five beautifully folded dumplings arrive steaming to the table, with a side of sweet charred Szechuan tomato sauce and cooling avocado chutney. While the translucent skin of the dumpling is soft and delightfully chewy, the inside is dense and exploding with flavor from the gamey minced goat, savoy cabbage and generous seasonings of garlic and cumin. When you bite into them, err on the side of caution to avoid burning your mouth with the rich broth contained inside. $10. 1329 W. Chicago Ave., 312-929-4990, vajrachicago.com — Grace Wong
Nick Kindelsperger/Chicago TribuneWhen it comes to appetizers, it's hard to comprehend the breadth of Mexican antojitos. In this category you'll find some of Mexico's most popular dishes, including tacos, tortas, quesadillas, gorditas and tostadas. But there are always many more to try, which explains how I ended up at La Lupita in Berwyn to try picaditas. Much like sopes, these thick discs of masa are constructed with tiny raised edges around the perimeter, which provide a secure foundation for all kinds of fillings. La Lupita keeps these fairly straightforward, with a smear of salsa, a pinch of cheese and a drizzle of crema. Each order contains four picaditas, allowing the restaurant to show off four of its housemade salsas. Which one you gravitate toward feels like a personal preference, but I couldn't resist the dark rustic red chile salsa. $9.99. 6539 Cermak Road, Berwyn, 708-788-8226, lalupitaberwyn.com — Nick Kindelsperger
Grace Wong/Chicago TribuneThe popcorn at Angry Pig Tavern proves that bacon makes everything better. Jalapenos are de-seeded before they're cooked with the bacon until the latter is crispy. Corn kernels are then popped in the gently spicy, jalapeno-infused bacon fat and then drizzled with sweet and sticky honey. The salty and crispy bacon is crumbled and sprinkled on top with a scattering of parsley. While the result can be a bit clumpy, that really just makes getting a mouthful easier. Pair it with a craft beer on tap or eat fistfuls of it on its own. $5. 2039 W. North Ave., 773-687-9795, angrypigtavern.com — Grace Wong
Jennifer Day/Chicago TribuneReinvigorate your brunch routine at HaiSous, where you'll find relief from the typical slog of mascarpone-stuffed French toast with the thoughtful and nuanced Vietnamese fare you'd expect from this Pilsen favorite. But still consider indulging your sweet tooth with the banh la dua ($5), a small plate of pandan-scented brioche served with coconut jam. The coconut jam alone is such a treat you might be tempted to spoon it out of the pot and directly into your mouth (as my daughter did), but spread it on the brioche — which carries the grassy, vanillalike notes of the pandan — and you'll have the perfect foil for the savory dishes that will headline your meal. 1800 S. Carpenter St., 312-702-1303, haisous.com — Jennifer Day
Nick Kindelsperger/Chicago TribuneAfter trying shrimp cocktail all over the city, the one that I can't stop thinking about is this seemingly simple version at Oyster Bar, inside Shaw's Crab House. What makes it the best? It's all about the quality of the shrimp. The restaurant only uses Mexican brown shrimp from the Pacific side of Mexico, which it buys from a local co-op of fishermen to ensure quality. Instead of boiling, the shrimp are cooked in a combi oven, an expensive piece of kitchen gear that can steam at very precise temperatures. This means that each shrimp is impeccably plump, with a wonderful seafood sweetness. It's served with cocktail sauce that's heavy with freshly grated horseradish, which doesn't singe your nostrils, so much as enliven your tastebuds. $5.25 per piece. 21 E. Hubbard St., 312-527-2722, shawscrabhouse.com/chicago/oyster-bar — Nick Kindelsperger For more on Chicago's best versions of shrimp cocktail, go here. For the suprising history of shrimp cocktail, go here.
Louisa Chu/Chicago TribuneWhen executive chef Paul Kahan said One Off Hospitality planned to transform the sooty corner in the heart of Wicker Park to a modern French seaside cafe, I had my doubts. Chef de cuisine Alec Walker detailed the provenance of sustainable American oysters, while designers worked around them. Cafe Cancale just opened last week yet feels timeless with nautical navy and white striped awnings plus cocooning sheer curtains filtering the sun and cityscape. Start with one of Kahan's recommendations, the yellow chicories salad studded with chunks of smoked eel and bacon lardons. It's a wonderful seafood cousin to the classic salade lyonnaise with a familiar warm poached egg, but decidedly lighter feathery crisp potato chips over delicately bitter leaves dressed in a bracing vinaigrette and a shower of chives. The seemingly smoldering long-finned fish undoubtedly took me back to memories of the sea. $15. 1576 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-904-1121, cafecancale.com — Louisa Chu
Brian Cassella / Chicago TribuneLet's face it; in a town loaded with top-quality steakhouses, there are tons of great steak-tartare appetizers as well. What draws me to Brindille's version is the beautiful presentation; hand-cut to order, the beef is topped with spicy watercress and a fried quail egg. To the side, a colorful array of pickled onion, multicolored cauliflower (also pickled) and mustard seeds provide bright, acidic accents; add some toasted rye shards for crunch and a lightly tart tarragon aigrelette dressing and you have an irresistible composition. $18. 534 N. Clark St., 312-595-1616; brindille-chicago.com — Phil Vettel For a ful review of Brindille, go here.
Nick Kindelsperger/Chicago TribuneGiuseppe Tentori's riff on the New Orleans' classic takes so many liberties, you wouldn't be forgiven for calling foul. Instead of a gut-busting sandwich that requires two hands to pick up, this petite offering could be grasped daintily between your thumb and forefinger. But what it lacks in abundance it makes up in explosive preciseness. Each features one perfectly plump fried oyster that gushes its briny liquid as soon as you bite in. It's balanced by a layer of spicy, funky kimchi and crunchy peanuts. These components are stacked on a super soft roll and then speared with a toothpick to keep them in place. It all adds up to one of the most dynamic and tasty bites of food you can get in Chicago for $5. 531 N. Wells St., 312-929-3501, gtoyster.com — Nick Kindelsperger
Adam Lukach/Chicago TribunePimiento cheese can be a polarizing dish, but at Big Jones, the spread is a staple among the appetizers, given that the restaurant and the dish share roots in Southern cuisine. You can almost taste that familiar history: Chef Paul Fehribach's pimiento spread is smooth and subtly spiced, topped with a touch that actually comes from across the pond. A tomato piccalilli tops the spread, giving it a vibrant hit of acid and welcome finishing flavor. I finished the picalilli on its own, with a spoon. The pimiento is the familiar you know (and maybe love), while the pickled tomatoes are what you never knew it needed. The dish also comes with sourdough slices on which to smear, made in-house and equally delicious. $7. 5347 N Clark St., 773-275-5725, bigjoneschicago.com — Adam Lukach
Adam Lukach/Chicago TribuneIf you'll excuse the pun, here's my beef with nachos: the structure. Despite the inefficiency of the nacho pile, nachos are delicious, a great idea and perfect app to share. However, after breaching the top layer of chips, we are all familiar with the disappointment that lies beneath. At best, you'll lack sufficient toppings; at worst, you'll have soggy chips. Butcher's Tap solves this problem. For its sheet nachos, the bar simply spreads a single — double at most — layer of nachos across a stone slab, which disperses the toppings evenly and keeps the nachos warm. The chips are made in-house, fresh and flaky, the kind that would arrive in a basket at a Mexican restaurant. The toppings — cilantro, cheese, black beans, tomatoes, jalapenos, red onions, sour cream and avocado crema — are also fresh, then spread out well and balanced in amount, so you're not overloaded with any one ingredient. Your table shouldn't dig for nachos anymore; this sheet spread unlocks nacho perfection. $12. $3 extra for beef or chicken, $5 for steak. 3553 N. Southport Ave., 773-325-0123, thebutcherstap.com — Adam Lukach
Louisa Chu/Chicago TribuneSpringtime in Chicago may be the most fickle season, though at Piccolo Sogno you'll find refuge whatever the weather. While we wait for the coveted interior terrazza to open at the rustic Italian restaurant, the first signs of primavera have already emerged in the Fulton River District neighborhood. Since opening 11 years ago, chef Tony Priolo has offered as one of his seasonal antipasti, a surprising dish of carciofini, that is artichokes, but transformed. Instead of spiky alien globes, Priolo presents a plate piled high with baby artichokes sliced paper thin, marinated in lemon then topped with curly frisee and shaved petals of Parmesan. With the complimentary bread basket of grissini and focaccia, it's tempting to make this refreshing course, hinting at the promises of warmth to come, your entire meal. $12. 464 N. Halsted St., 312-421-0077, piccolosognorestaurant.com — Louisa Chu
Abel Uribe / Chicago TribuneRich Melman, center, celebrates with his sons R.J., left, and Jerrod, second from right, daughter Molly and late CS publisher John Carroll at the James Beard Awards in 2015.
Louisa Chu/Chicago TribuneChristopher Kim started working at his parents' restaurant, the award-winning San Soo Gab San, when he was only 4 years old. Last summer he opened his own place, San Soo Korean BBQ, in the Fulton River District neighborhood with investors, but it wasn't until fall that chef Andy Lim joined as a partner. Lim, last at Swift & Sons steakhouse, still co-owns City Rock Korean Kitchen with his brother. So there might be a lot of family expectations with his braised flank steak dish designed to share at San Soo. Traditionally jangjorim may be served among banchan, the small Korean side dishes, but Lim makes it a main event. Supple slices of umami rich beef, enhanced with a runny yolked egg, sweet shishito peppers, crisp garlic chips and warm soy jus may satisfy your carnivorous appetite long before any barbecue. $14. 401 N. Milwaukee Ave., 312-243-3344, sansookbbq.com — Louisa Chu
Phil Vettel/Chicago TribuneOpen only since early April, Stephanie Izard's Peruvian-inspired, rooftop restaurant in The Hoxton hotel is already a tough-to-get table, and this snapper ceviche helps explain why. Coarse-cut pieces of fish mingle with dragon fruit cubes, trout roe, purple sweet potato and avocado over a pool of ponzu-sweetened leche de tigre (a classic Peruvian marinade). Spicy, tart and sweet flavors are in perfect balance. $17. 200 N. Green St., 312-761-1717, cabrachicago.com — Phil Vettel
Grace Wong/Chicago TribuneWith a crispy shell that dramatically shatters with each bite, the lumpia shanghai is a must-order at the Filipino-Cuban spot Bayan Ko. Inside find a dense cylinder of pork, scallions and carrots, seasoned with hoisin sauce, garlic and sambal. The filling's bouncy texture is a perfect contrast to the deep-fried, golden exterior. Each order comes with a side of Lola's sweet and sour dipping sauce with tiny chunks of garlic that add a subtle edge to each bite. You'll find yourself dipping and crunching away until the entire plate is gone. $8. 1810 W. Montrose Ave., 773-698-6373, bayankochicago.com — Grace Wong
Louisa Chu/Chicago TribuneThe french fries at Mr. D's, the best in Chicagoland, may just be a side to some, an appetizer to others, but to you, the fry connoisseur, it's an experience. While the lunch rush races out, you might watch as Mr. D himself, Mike Antonopoulos, performs something like a Japanese tea ceremony, but with potatoes. He and wife Ann, Greek immigrants, with son John, work with practiced grace to hand-cut the same large potatoes that steakhouses use. Instead of $20 supersized baked spuds, they transform rough earthen tubers to edible kinetic art. Impossibly long and perfect, delicately golden crisp fried shells seem filled with silken whipped potatoes. $1.85. 6656 W. Diversey Ave., 773-637-0042, facebook.com/Mr-Ds-Shish-Kabobs-137891636254157 — Louisa Chu RELATED: For more on Mr. D's and our report on Chicago's best french fries, go to chicagotribune.com/frenchfries.
Joe Gray/Chicago TribuneWhether a couple quick glasses and a bite or a full-on dinner, any session at Joe's Imports, the Fulton Market wine bar, should start with the Parmesan puffs. Just put in your order right when you sit down, before you even pick a wine. The crispy nuggets will go with about any pour on Joe Fiely's carefully considered, Italian-focused (though not exclusively) list. The puffs will arrive soon after you've started in on a glass. Fried for a crust that yields with a satisfying crunch to a soft, rich, cheesy interior, the ping pong ball-size fritters satisfy in an elemental way. They come showered with finely grated Parmesan threads and a rather thick fondue for dipping, neither of which they need. But, hey, we like excess. The puffs make happy companions to rosés with decent acid and sparklers, and, best of all, with the bar's lambrusco — dry and refreshing and an almost purple dark red hue. if you've been resisting jumping into the lambrusco pool, let this be the summer you finally dive in. Ripples will run through your life, and you'll know just what to eat with it. 813 W. Fulton Market, 312-736-1750, joeswineimports.com — Joe Gray. For Phil Vettel's review of Joe's Imports, go here.
Grace Wong/Chicago Tribune
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Ramen Takeya devotes an entire section of its menu to "otsumami" or drinking foods — nestled among them the Japanese street snack takoyaki. The ball-shaped snacks are made with a batter that crisps up into a golden shell while remaining creamy and soft inside. Hidden away are Chiclet-size pieces of octopus, tiny surprises in the center of each ball. Six balls are served in a red and white paper boats and drizzled with sweet and salty Japanese barbecue sauce, creamy mayo, aonori (dried seaweed) and fishy-but-in-a-good-way bonito flakes (cured fish shavings). Between the crispy-meets-creamy texture and the sweet-meets-salty flavors, it's easy to see how a refreshing beer (or soda, for non-drinkers) would pair nicely. $6. 819 W. Fulton Market, 312-666-7710, <a href="http://www.ramentakeya.com/">ramentakeya.com</a> — Grace Wong
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By Phil Vettel
PUBLISHED: | UPDATED:
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...
In an announcement that will surprise few observers, R.J. Melman has been named as president of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises.
R.J., at 38 the oldest of LEYE founder Rich Melman’s three children (Jerrod and Molly are the others), has been a major force within the LEYE empire for nearly 10 years. Beginning with Hub 51 in 2008, the Melman siblings have created more than 13 concepts under the LEYE umbrella.
“I wasn’t caught off guard, if that’s your question,” joked R. J. Melman, “but it’s very exciting news.”
Current Lettuce president and CEO Kevin Brown will remain the company’s CEO. Richard Melman will retain his titles of founder and chairman.
“Make no mistake, Kevin and my dad are going to be around for a long time,” Melman said, “and I look forward to working with them on a daily basis. I’m honored that they chose me, and I love that I have the support of my siblings as well.”
Melman said he did not foresee big changes in the company anytime soon.
“I would say (LEYE) will change in an evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, way,” he said. “I’m not sure I could say what might change tomorrow, but over time, I’ll take on an increasing role in the group.”
“R.J. has developed himself, and I have watched him grow over the years,” Rich Melman said in a statement. “I am proud of the leader he has become.”
Phil Vettel is a Tribune critic
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