With the start of Lent, it is the perfect time to use the old rules of
”fasting” to your modern advantage. I`m going to propose that you try something rather unusual, something which I did several years back and which I still recall as one of my most memorable gastronomic experiences. Simply
”attempt” to eat only fish and shellfish during Lent.
Now as anyone who reads this column knows, I am hardly against meat or poultry. So why give it all up for fish for 40 days? There are lots of reasons.
A ”fish only” policy during Lent can help you lose weight and start to get into shape for summer because fish is so low in calories. It can improve your health because the abundance of Omega-3 fatty acids in fish and seafood can help to lower your cholesterol and reduce your chance of heart attack.
But what is most rewarding is that it gives you an opportunity to expand your cooking repertory and it allows you to indulge in some wonderful sensory experiences.
This doesn`t mean that you should refuse meat or poultry if you are a guest and it`s put before you. But when you are eating out, look for new fish dishes, and when you are cooking, look for new recipes.
This is the time to look into your fish cookbooks. Or the fish sections of general cookbooks. I cooked my way through the fish section of Marcella Hazan`s ”Classic Italian Cookbook” (Knopf, $18.95 hardcover; Ballantine, $4.50 paperback). I ended up trying many things that I normally wouldn`t just because they were next to be done. Most I enjoyed thoroughly; only one, my notes show, seemed to me at the time pedestrian.
Some excellent fish cookbooks include: Pierre Franey`s ”Seafood Cookbook,” (Times Books, $22.50), Shirley King`s ”Saucing The Fish” (Simon & Schuster, $16.95) and James Beard`s ”New Fish Cookery” (Warner Books, $10.95 paperback).
THEORY, TECHNIQUE ABOUT FISH
Many techniques of fish cookery have already been covered in this column. Here are a few general points to remember:
– More than in any other protein the freshness of fish is vital. If you can find local fish, whether catfish or farm-raised trout (some fishmongers have tanks of live trout) that have been taken from the water less than 24 hours and kept on crushed ice, that is preferable to a more exotic fish several days old.
– To keep fish, cover it loosely and place on crushed ice in a baking dish. Do not leave out at room temperature. Use it as soon as possible.
– Fish cooking is more a matter of fish warming-up. Only when fish reaches an internal temperature of 155 degrees does the protein begin to constrict and the juices start to run out, leaving it flaky and dry and unappetizing.
– Fish has very little fat in comparison with meat and poultry. This is its great advantage in terms of health, but it is probably what accounts for so many people disliking it, as it is fat that largely lends flavor. The plus side is that fish lends itself to saucing better than any other type of protein. In fact, except for artful grilling (being very wary of overcooking) without a sauce, fish can be downright dull to most palates.
– When saucing the fish, decide whether you want rich fat-laden sauces or not. Used judiciously, a rich sauce is a wonderful treat. There are also sauces made without butter or cream that are rich in flavor or even have the
”mouth feel” of buttery sauces that actually help you reduce your cholesterol and promote good health. All of the recipes below are in this category.
– There is a general rule of thumb for cooking fish: 8 minutes of cooking time, regardless of the method, per inch of thickness measured at the fattest point.
– To tell if fish is done, either use an ”instant” reading thermometer, which should register between 140 and 150 degrees, or use a sharp knife to test the flesh nearest the bone which is done as soon as it comes easily from the bone even if it has tinges of pink.
MARCELLA HAZAN`S FISH BROILED THE ADRIATIC WAY
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Marinating time: 1 hour
Broiling time: 8 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Grilling fish over a fire is a favorite method around the Mediterranean and certainly along the shores of the Adriatic. What is interesting here is that the fish marinates in olive oil, lemon juice and bread crumbs for an hour or so. It really adds to the flavor. Adapted from ”The Classic Italian Cook Book.”
2 teaspoons salt
2 pounds thick slices of fish
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice
6 tablespoons fine, dry unflavored bread crumbs
2 bay leaves for grilling
Lemon wedges
1. Salt fillets on both sides, put on a dish and coat with olive oil and lemon juice mixed together, turning fish several times to coat it thoroughly. 2. Sprinkle bread crumbs over fish and turn again until it is coated lightly. Let sit at room temperature for an hour, turning 2 to 3 times.
3. Heat broiler. If using a barbecue, prepare the fire and wait until coals develop white ash; just before putting fish over the fire, throw bay leaves onto it.
4. Whether broiling or grilling, put fish about 4 inches from heat. Broil on both sides until done: allow 8 minutes per inch of thickness and divide to find the time for each side. Serve hot, with lemon wedges.
ADRIATIC SHRIMP BROCHETTES
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Marinating time: 30 minutes
Broiling time: 3 to 5 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
This is a somewhat similar treatment for fish, also from Marcella Hazan. It is not necessary to use skewers but it makes it much easier to turn the shrimp.
1 1/2-2 pounds medium shrimp, shelled, deveined
1/4 cup each: olive oil, safflower oil
3/4 cup dry, unflavored bread crumbs
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1-2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
3/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
Lemon wedges
1. Heat broiler. Rinse shrimp in cold water and pat dry. Put in a bowl.
2. Add as much of the two oils in equal parts as is needed to coat shrimp. Add bread crumbs and toss to coat. Sprinkle garlic, parsley, salt and pepper and mix well, adding more oil and crumbs if needed. Let marinate a minimum of 30 minutes and up to several hours.
3. Skewer 3 to 4 shrimp on each skewer. Curl each shrimp, bending tail end inward so that the skewer goes through the shrimp at 3 points.
4. Cook shrimp about 2 inches from heat for 21/2 to 3 minutes on one side and 1 to 2 minutes on the other. As soon as a crisp, golden crust forms, they are done. Serve hot on the skewers with lemon wedges.
DIANA KENNEDY`S POMPANO IN GREEN SAUCE
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Marinating time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 30 to 40 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
I hesitate to mention that this is a Mexican recipe because most people probably will assume it is fiery hot. It isn`t. It is a fine way to use pompano, a rather expensive fish and often hard to get. But it is a very special dish and well worth it. Bass, particularly striped bass, is a good substitute.
1/4 teaspoon each: peppercorns, cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large lime, juiced
2 pompano (1 1/4 pounds each) cleaned, head and tail left on
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 green pepper, chopped
1 chile serrano, seeded and chopped
3 sprigs fresh cilantro (coriander) chopped
3 sprigs parsley, chopped
6 green onions, chopped
1/8 teaspoon oregano
1 tablespoon mild white vinegar
1 pound green tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
1. Grind peppercorns, cumin, and salt together in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, then add lime juice.
2. Pierce fish all over with sharp tines of a fork. Rub in seasoning. Let marinate unrefrigerated 1 hour or longer.
3. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Put garlic, pepper, chile serrano, cilantro, parsley, green onions, oregano, vinegar, green tomatoes and salt into a blender with 1/3 cup water and blend to a smooth sauce.
4. Put 2 tablespoons of oil under fish. Pour remaining oil over fish then cover with sauce. Cover dish and put in oven 15 to 20 minutes. Baste several times.
5. Turn fish carefully and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes, continuing basting. Serve immediately.
FISH IN CILANTRO
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Marinating time: 2 hours
Baking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This has always been a favorite of mine, this is another dish of Diana Kennedy`s. I love to serve it to guests who say they don`t like fresh cilantro. The long cooking makes it suprisingly tasteful for all but the most dedicated cilantro haters. This dish is also delicious served cold.
1 red snapper (31/2 pounds) cleaned with head and tail on
3/4 teaspoon Kosher (coarse) salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 medium onion, finely sliced
1/3 cup fresh lime juice
6 tablespoons virgin olive oil
3 chiles jalapenos en escabeche
2 cups fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves, roughly chopped
1. Pierce fish on both sides with sharp tines of a fork. Rub with salt and pepper, then put onto a dish with half the onions underneath and the rest on top. Sprinkle fish with lime juice and marinate for 2 hours or longer. Turn it over once.
2. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cover dish with foil and bake fish for 15 minutes on each side.
3. Add remaining ingredients and bake until fish is just cooked, about 20 minutes, basting it once or twice.
SWORDFISH STEAMED WITH HERBS
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 8 to 10 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
This extraordinarily easy dish is just as tasty. I first learned it from Jo Bettoja (buh-toy-yah), a very attractive Georgian who married an Italian and has lived in Italy ever since.
2 swordfish steaks, 3/4-inch thick, about 21/2 pounds
Kosher (coarse) salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, juiced
1-2 tablespoons fresh basil, minced
1/3 cup fresh parsley, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1. Put swordfish steaks in a single layer on 1 of 2 round heavy porcelain plates.
2. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dribble olive oil over both sides of fish, then sprinkle top side with lemon juice, basil, parsley, and oregano. Cover with the second plate and set on a steamer or simply on the top of any kettle just large enough to hold the plates over boiling water. Cook until fish turns white, 8 to 10 minutes.
Note: This dish may be served hot, cold, or at room temperature.
PROVENCALE BAKED FISH WITH MUSHROOMS IN WHITE WINE
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Baking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
This is a very light and tasty dish, easy to prepare. The thickening of the sauce is done by the onions, so be certain to mince them finely or grate them. This works well with bass, red snapper, cod or haddock.
4 pounds fish fillets
Freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon leaf thyme or savory
3 tablespoons light olive oil or half olive oil and half safflower oil
Optional: 1 tablespoon Cognac or Armagnac
1 pound onions, minced
2 pounds fresh mushrooms, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 cup dry white wine
3 lettuce leaves
Fresh parsley sprigs
1. Rinse and pat dry fillets. Sprinkle with pepper and thyme and set aside.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a baking dish large enough to hold the fillets, preferably in a single layer. Add fish and saute for 2 minutes. Using 2 spatulas turn over gently and cook for 5 minutes. Take off the heat. If using it, add Cognac and light it. Set aside when the flames go out.
3. Heat remaining oil in a skillet and saute onions and mushrooms for 10 minutes. When they are limp, add salt, pepper, and the wine and continue cooking.
4. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Gently transfer fish to a platter. Pour any juices into the onion-mushroom mixture. Wash and oil the baking dish and put half of the onion-mushroom mixture in it. Gently transfer fish onto this vegetable bed and cover with remaining mixture. Put lettuce leaves on top and put in oven until you can easily prick a needle through to the bone, about 40 minutes.
5. Remove lettuce leaves. Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper and garnish with sprigs of parsley. –
