Much has been written about Ireland`s ”terrible beauty,” its friendly people, its 40 shades of green, its pubs and castles and golf courses, but nothing adequately prepares the first-time visitor for the inexpressible beauty of the west. When the sun shines on the Cliffs of Moher or fog shrouds the peaks of Connemara, there can be no place more beautiful or inspiring.
Ireland`s west is a place of dramatic coastline, peculiar rock formations, sheep grazing in rolling hillside pastures, castles and abbeys and neolithic sites. It is families who have lived on the same land for countless generations, peat bog fields that have been harvested for fuel for centuries, picturesque villages where spontaneous music sessions occur in pubs almost nightly, the holy mountain Croagh Patrick rising into the mists above Clew Bay, where the legendary Granuaile (Grace O`Malley) ruled for much of the 16th Century.
The best way to explore Ireland is by car and on foot, lingering for as many days as possible, taking day trips and observing the shifting moods of sea and fog.
Clare Island, which dominates Clew Bay, is a microcosm for all of the west. It was at the heart of Granuaile`s territory and has fine remnants of that era still standing. One of her castles looms over the main harbor and the 13th Century abbey nearby allegedly was the site of her burial.
The island has peaks that rise dramatically from sea-battered cliffs, white-washed stone cottages and abandoned potato fields now gone to undulating pasture with ubiquitous grazing sheep-reminders of the 19th Century famine caused by the potato blight that decimated the country.
Recently, major archaeological discoveries were made that dated human habitation on the island to about 3,500 B.C., and these sites can be found easily by anyone out walking with a little guidance.
Clare Island can be explored on foot in a few days, and is easily accessible from Achill Island, the Curraun Peninsula or Roonah Point near Westport.
Worldwide updates
Guatemala: Robberies have increased on public buses, both within cities and on highways, including incidents where entire buses have been robbed en route to major tourist destinations. Robberies have also reportedly increased in the major tourist areas of Guatemala City, Antigua, Panajachel and Chichicastenango. The government requires that foreigners carry their passport, driver`s license or tourist card at all times. Cholera has been reported, and travelers should take appropriate precautions, substituting bottled beverages for water, and eating only food that is well cooked.
India: The recent Indian Airlines crash on its way to Imphal in eastern India is the third crash of an Indian domestic aircraft in as many years, and the airline has been repeatedly criticized for poor maintenance. Consider using surface transit if time permits while traveling around the country.
Jamaica: Street crime continues to be a major problem in Kingston. According to the U.S. Department of State, crime in the capital is higher than anywhere else in the Caribbean. Walking the city streets at night is not recommended, and public transportation other than licensed taxis should be avoided. In the wake of the State Department`s advisory, the Jamaican government announced increased security measures to protect tourists including an increased police presence in resort areas, security inspections of hotels and villas, improvement of roads and removal of squatter communities from resort areas.
Malaysia: An Australian was recently sentenced to death by hanging for drug trafficking. For foreigners, this should act as a reminder that such grim punishments are indeed enforced for crimes that would be treated less severely at home. Possession of a half-ounce or more of a controlled substance constitutes drug trafficking under Malaysian law. Since the penalty for drug trafficking was stiffened in 1975, 385 people have been sentenced to death and 110 of them have been hanged. Avoid any involvement with illegal drugs.
Mexico: Three bombs exploded recently at businesses associated with the U.S. in Mexico City. The bombings took place at dawn outside the IBM headquarters, a McDonald`s restaurant and a Sanborns store. There were no injuries, only minor damage was caused, and no one has claimed responsibility for the acts. Such bombings represent little threat to travelers but are a reminder to exercise caution around U.S. institutions in places where anti-American statements have been made.
Northern Ireland: Sectarian violence between Catholics and Protestants has escalated in recent weeks, with eight deaths in a nine-day stretch in August. While these troubles represent an ongoing tragedy, they don`t really affect travel and tourism in the region. Many thousands of people visit Northern Ireland each year without incident, and the violence usually occurs in places not frequented by tourists.
Rwanda: Hostilities continue between government forces and Rwandan exiles from Uganda. Fighting has been reported near the Akagera Game Park and Volcano National Park, and travel to these places is often impossible. A curfew remains in effect throughout the country.
South Korea: Thousands of students demonstrated recently, not against the current government, but for unification with the north. The demonstrations turned violent when the students were prevented from marching to the border. Such protests can disrupt transit, but usually do not have much impact on travel within the country so long as travelers avoid these large gatherings.
Spain: Highway robberies have increased in the province of Catalonia, with travelers by car being robbed when they stopped for a rest or being deceived by thieves into thinking they had a flat tire and pulling over to check. Avoid stopping in places where groups of young men are visible and be wary of anyone suggesting you pull over for any reason.
USSR: The failed coup created chaos in Moscow and other places, but conditions are quickly returning to normal. It may be prudent, however, to defer travel to the Soviet Union for a few weeks to allow the situation to stabilize.
On the other hand, this is a time of great historical significance for the Soviet Union, and travelers interested in witnessing such events should have no unusual problems if they exercise caution and avoid large crowds. Travelers should also be aware that pickpockets and thieves may take advantage of these gatherings and tend to prey on foreigners. Street crime has increased significantly in the Soviet Union in recent years.
Yugoslavia: Conflict continues in this troubled country with no end in sight. Travel to Yugoslavia is not recommended, especially to the republics of Croatia and Serbia, where ethnic rivalries have led to fierce fighting. Roadblocks are common and the locations of disruptions are difficult to predict. Tourism has plummeted and there may be great bargains along the Adriatic coast, but the threat of violence makes travel here risky.
———-
World Travel Watch is a monthly report designed to help you make informed judgments about travel. Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you leave home. In the U.S., contact a Passport Agency office; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy or consulate.
