There are at least two verities about fried chicken. One: The pan-fried kind tastes better than the deep-fried kind. Two: The best cooking vessel is a black cast-iron skillet.
And it is almost always true that if it’s restaurant fried chicken, it’s the deep-fried kind, probably cooked in an electric fryer. Sometimes it is even partly cooked, by steaming or braising, before it is thickly battered and dropped into bubbling oil.
Lack of time may cause the Deep-Fried Chicken Syndrome in restaurants. It takes twice as long for pan-frying as deep-frying. Restaurants might argue, legitimately, that a lot of people won’t wait around for the slower pan-fried chicken. A lot of us would, however.
After technique and choice of pan, there is room for differences over how best to fry chicken.
Some cooks like to soak it first, in either sweet milk or buttermilk. Some use a relatively sturdy breading. Others say seasoned flour is the only coating needed.
Some tips for frying chicken:
Heat the shortening or oil until hot but not smoking.
Choose a pan that gives ample room around each piece, or use two pans.
To prevent overcooking, fry the dark pieces for 5 to 7 minutes before adding the white meat.
Use a splatter screen.
To test for doneness, insert a knife tip into the thickest part of each piece; juices should run clear.
The following recipe doesn’t call for presoaking, but uses a buttermilk-egg wash for crustier chicken.
MAMA’S FRIED CHICKEN
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 to 30 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
2 broiler/fryers, about 2 1/2 pounds each, cut into serving pieces
Seasoned salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 quart buttermilk
5 eggs
Flour
Vegetable shortening or vegetable oil
Pan gravy for serving, optional, recipe follows
1. Wash and dry chicken. Generously sprinkle with seasoned salt and black pepper. Beat buttermilk and eggs together in a bowl for about 1 minute, until well-blended.
2. Pour flour for dredging chicken onto a plate or shallow bowl. Add seasoned salt and pepper as desired. Roll a piece of chicken in the flour; dip into the buttermilk-egg mixture; then dredge again in the flour. Repeat with remaining chicken.
3. Heat a cast-iron skillet large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer (or use two skillets). Add shortening or vegetable oil to a depth of about 1 inch and heat it over medium heat.
4. When oil is piping hot but not smoking, add chicken a few pieces at a time, so that the oil does not become too cool. When all chicken is added, cover skillet and cook over medium heat until chicken is browned on the bottom side, 5 to 10 minutes. Turn the chicken and cook uncovered, until chicken is brown and crisp on all sides, 10 to 20 minutes more.
5. Remove and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with pan gravy if desired.
PAN GRAVY
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: About 2 1/2 cups
1/4 cup pan drippings
1/4- 1/2 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup flour
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cups chicken broth or water
1. Measure oil from pan chicken was cooked in, then return 1/4 cup of it to the pan. Heat oil and then add onion; cook and stir until onion is translucent. Add flour, salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until well blended. Add broth and stir until the gravy is smooth. Lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. If gravy becomes too thick, add more broth or water. Adjust seasonings and serve.
For cream gravy: Omit the onion. Substitute milk for the broth or use cream or canned condensed (not sweetened) milk for part of the liquid.
