You don’t need a passport to sample the made-to-order Mexican cuisine at Rancho’s Grill, but you do need to venture south to suburban Olympia Fields, where the margaritas come in five flavors and Dos Equis Especial is on tap.
The 18-month-old restaurant has settled into a building that over the last 10 years housed a quick succession of fern-bar establishments. But rather than renovate, Rancho’s owners have chosen to decorate. Paper garlands, pinatas and other signs of fiesta Mexicana adorn almost every wall in an attempt to disguise the place’s previous personalities. This odd juxtaposition of stained glass and sombreros adds up to contrived Mexican ambiance, but there is nothing faux about the food or service.
Don’t fill up on the warm chips and assertive — but not searing — salsa, which comes to the table as soon as you sit down. Instead, have a refreshingly complex sangria and hold out for Rancho’s ceviche, a generous portion of shrimp and orange roughy chunks “cooked” in a citrus marinade and tossed with cilantro, tomato, onion and just the right amount of diced hot peppers. Or, try the cocktail de camarones, tender, marinated shrimp in a tangy tomato sauce with cilantro, onion and avocado.
Rancho’s offers the usual assortment of fajitas, enchiladas and tacos, but for something a little different (and closer to the food served in Mexico), try the camarones al ajillo. Seven large shrimp sauteed in a picante garlic-pepper sauce are presented as the centerpiece of a platter that also includes fluffy Mexican rice, pico de gallo, guacamole, sour cream and warm flour tortillas. Nice touch: Instead of the usual refried beans, entrees come with frioles de olla, a miniature earthenware pot of pinto beans in a tasty sauce seasoned with bits of bacon and ground meat.
If you crave variety, order the tampiquena plate, which lets you sample the carne asada, chicken enchilada and cheese quesadilla. The marinated beef is fork tender and loaded with flavor, and the quesadilla’s cheese filling bursts from the lightly toasted tortilla triangle. The chicken enchilada, however, is the weakest of the three — it’s taco-stand ordinary and could benefit from more aggressive seasoning. In fact, the heat in most of Rancho’s dishes seems to be turned down to suit American tastes. The tampiquena also comes with rice, beans and guacamole, making it a clean-plate challenge even for larger appetites.
Desserts at Rancho’s are predictable — flan, deep-fried ice cream, rice pudding — but if you still have room after finishing Rancho’s huge portions, the silky smooth flan is the best choice.
Rancho’s service is prompt and polite and its attitude is family-friendly. A children’s menu lists kid-pleasing burgers, a grilled cheese sandwich and fries, along with nino-sized helpings of nachos or burritos.
No Mexican meal would be complete without music, and Rancho’s has its share. During the week, Latin Muzak drifts through the dining room, but on weekends (Friday, Saturday and Sunday), the piped-in melodies are augmented with songs from a serenading guitarist. Also on weekends, Ole Ole, Rancho’s cantina and club a floor above the restaurant, opens for business. Rancho’s full menu is available in Ole Ole, which rocks with dancers working off their meals to deejay-supervised salsa, merengue, American music and an occasional live band.
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Rancho’s Grill
(two forks)
20000 Governor’s Hwy., Olympia Fields
708-503-9940
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Lunch: Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7.95-$14.95
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Other: Wheelchair accessible, carryout available, free parking
Ratings key: 4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are on based on an anonymous visit by a Tribune staff member. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
