A Chicagoan impatient to experience the deep, embracing warmth of summer could be excused for dreaming of a seaside restaurant on a sun-bathed Greek island. Not so long ago, such a dream could easily have been ruined by the appearance of a bottle of Greek wine. Thin and bitter, it defied enjoyment, even in such a setting.
No longer. Technology has invaded the vineyards and wineries of Greece, and no one is the worse for it. As evidence consider Boutari’s 2001 Kretikos, a product of Crete that pleases the palate even when removed from the magical setting of its island home.
If you insist on complexity, well, Kretikos is no chardonnay. But it is fresh, clean and dry, with an enticing floral aroma and the flavor of fleshy fruit such as ripe peach and melon. To seek specific food matches would be fatuous. You drink it when you want a glass of white wine, morning, noon or night. The price is about $9.
