A legion of Greek winemakers is intent on recapturing the country’s ancient viticultural glory. They aim to break the stereotype that all Greek wines are that mix of plonk and pine resin known as retsina.
Last summer’s Olympic Games in Athens gave some of Greece’s more popular white wines a boost, but Greek wines remain largely unknown to most Americans. In the Chicago area, for example, only 1,995 cases of Greek wine were sold in a 52-week period ending March 12, according to consumer research firm ACNielsen. Compare that to the more than 300,000 cases each of Italian and Australian wines sold then.
Sunday’s celebration of Easter by the Orthodox churches, including the Greek, is a good reason to enjoy some of Greece’s new reds.
The biggest hurdle with some of these Greek wines may be the names of the grapes. Saint George, also known in Greek as agiorgitiko, is a major red player, along with such grapes as xinomavro, limnio and mandilaria. A popular white wine grape is moschofilero (or moscophilero, as Wine Lover’s Companion spells it). Yet a number of winemakers also produce wine blends, combining more familiar grape varietals, like merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with their Greek grapes.
These funny-sounding names, at least to American ears, may make some would-be drinkers pause, said Joe Kafka, owner of Kafka Wine Co.
“After they try it however, it’s a different story,” he said.
Doug Jeffirs, director of wine sales at Binny’s Beverage Depot, finds it “refreshing” that Greek wines aren’t “overrun” with the usual French varietals.
“By using modern winemaking techniques and facilities, they are making the indigenous varietals come alive,” he said. “The deserved recognition and demand for Greek wines hasn’t happened yet.”
Sterling Pratt of Schaefer’s in Skokie believes a number of factors are working against the popularization of Greek wines in the United States.
“Greece has a dizzying array of names and little similarity to other wine regions, let alone any bargain prices. So, I’d say they’re going to be at this for a while.
“On the other hand, they’ve been making wines for the drinking world longer than any other developed country in civilization,” he added. “Maybe they don’t need to be as big as Western Europe or the New World in the world market. Some dishes cry out for these classy reds and whites.”
A big challenge, too, is the mind-set of the consumer.
“Interestingly, the people most resistant to these wines are the Greek-Americans,” said Gregg Wilson, wine buyer for The Artisan Cellar. “They’ll say, under their breath, `You know, I’m Greek, I’m proud, but our wines are terrible.’ Then I have to inform them that the wines are really pretty good after all.”
Ted Diamantis, president of Diamond Importers Inc., a Chicago-based company that imports Greek wines, understands the prejudice against Greek wines.
“Greek wines have been world class, there’s just been a lapse of 3,000 years,” he quipped. Diamantis explained that the 400-year occupation of Greece by the Ottoman Empire seriously stifled Greek culture, including winemaking. In more recent times, he said that winemakers have been more concerned about quantity rather than quality, but that’s changing. Winemakers are studying in all the world’s major wine regions, he said, and they are applying those lessons back home.
“There are 300 wineries in Greece,” he said. Of those, 30 are top-notch “and seven or eight stand up to any in the world.”
Got a question about wine, beer or spirits? Bill Daley will answer questions about buying and enjoying drinks in a new column in Q starting May 8. E-mail your questions to wdaley@tribune.com, or mail to Bill Daley, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., 5th floor, Chicago, IL 60611. Please include your name, phone number and town.
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How to say it
Agiorgitiko: “ah-yohr-YEE-tee-koh”
Xinomavro: “zee-NOH-mah-vroh”
Limnio: “leem-NYO”
Mandilaria: “man-dee-lahr-YA”
Moschofilero: “mo-sko-FEE-leh-ro”
Source: Greekwinemakers.com
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Smooth sips of Greece
Greek wines have the most fascinating aromas, smells that immediately set the wines apart as something different. The distinct fragrance was just the first pleasant surprise encountered by the Good Eating tasting panel during an informal blind tasting of Greek red wines. The wines, a number of them blends of familiar internationally known varietals with Greek grapes, proved remarkably smooth drinking.
Panelists sampled and rated seven Greek reds with Ted Diamantis, president of Diamond Importers Inc., a company specializing in Greek wines.
2000 Skouras Megas Oenos
Panelists praised this red blend of cabernet sauvignon and agiorgitiko grapes for its fruitiness balanced by notes of leather and earth. Very dark, almost red-violet in color, the elegant wine had a nose of cassis, blackberries and a pinch of pepper. Serve with rosemary-scented lamb, grilled chicken, duck with cassis sauce.
(3 corkscrews) $19
1997 Chateau Carras
A blend of cabernet sauvignon and limnio grapes, this wine was full-bodied, with notes of leather and incense seasoned with salt and pepper. “Sharp, coarse but in a macho-sexy way,” one panelist wrote. Serve with spinach pie, hearty pasta dishes, grilled vegetables.
(3 corkscrews) $23
2000 Boutari Merlot
Xinomavro
This 50-50 blend had a plush softness that reminded one taster of butter. Yet there’s still enough acid to provide balance and interest. Serve with grilled fish or pizza.
(2 corkscrews) $18
2000 Lantides Nemea Saint George
Comes on strong with sharp tannins but quickly mellows to a soft finish. Some found the wine harsh, others thought it sexy. Serve with fried cod, cheese fondue.
(2 corkscrews) $11
1996 Moraiti Paros Reserve
This blend of mandilaria and monemvasia grapes had a salty spark and an almost aniselike flavor underscored with mint. One taster thought the wine too understated. Serve with roast lamb, roast chicken with tarragon, salmon.
(2 corkscrews) $11
2000 Spiropoulos Red Stag Agiorgitiko
This red made from agiorgitiko had an earthy aroma and flavor, with notes of mushrooms and cherries. Serve with braised lamb, roast pork, cheese.
(2 corkscrews) $15
2000 Skouras Nemea Grand Cuvee
This agiorgitiko red didn’t impress many panelists. Most thought the wine a bit thin, muted and acerbic. Fans thought the wine “lean, flinty, crisp but also soft.” Serve with roast chicken.
(2 corkscrews) $20
— B.D.
Sources: We found these wines at various Binny’s Beverage Depot locations. Not every wine may be in stock at your local stores; prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
Ratings key:
(4 corkscrews) Excellent
(3 corkscrews) Very good
(2 corkscrews) Good
(1 corkscrew) Fair
(No corkscrews) Poor
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