Ask any number of chefs and spice purveyors about the seemingly sudden boom in food rubs and you’ll likely get a history lesson. They’ll tell you, as Spice House owner Tom Erd did, that the world’s first rub was coarse salt used for eons as a meat preservative.
They’ll tell you, as Seattle chef Tom Douglas did, that the current run on rubs stems from the “barbecue guys”–the men and women on the national barbecue circuit who have been popularizing cooking with smoke and grilling as never before.
They’ll tell you, as South African chef Tracy Foulkes did, that your great-grandmother probably used rubs–in the form of butter, salt, pepper, garlic and herbs–on the Sunday roast.
“All that’s really happened,” Foulkes said, “is that a verb has been turned into a noun.”
At The Spice House in Old Town, Erd recently demonstrated the simple yet flavorful practice of blending spices and herbs by creating a rub on the spot. Quickly dashing to one spice jar after another, Erd was careful to step lightly around a customer’s old dog as she slowly ambled about the shop like a peg-leg pirate sniffing corners and trousers alike.
In tribute, we’ll call Erd’s creation the Run-A-Round Rub.
Most rubs begin with salt and sugar to provide a solid flavor foundation and draw out some moisture from the food so the flavors can infuse into it, whether it is meat, fruits or vegetables. Just be careful to keep salt and sugar levels low enough, near a “fine line” that Erd said rests at the point just before they draw too much moisture from the food. Too much salt and sugar can turn a rub into an old-fashioned cure and meat into jerky.
In the store’s kitchen, Erd pushed the mixture through a strainer with a measuring spoon, which created an even coarseness and reddish color. He tasted it, then proclaimed that it would work on beef, pork and poultry (but maybe next time with a little less kosher salt).
Erd then proceeded to go “way out there,” with a lighter rub based on Caribbean ingredients that would work well on poultry. And, he said, adding a little more white sugar and some cinnamon would produce a nice fruit or dessert rub. Dessert? Sure. One of his employees, he recalled, concocted a rub with cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves that was a big hit on vanilla ice cream.
Tom’s wife, co-owner Patty Erd, added some wisdom. “Technically, everything in the entire store could be a rub,” she said. “A rub can be just about anything,” which is part of the allure that is making rubs so popular.
Exotic–yet easy
Halfway around the world, Cape Town chef Foulkes has marketed 20 rubs–and counting–which she good-naturedly attributed more to “a lack of self-control than a calculated decision.” Her rubs, sold under the brand name NoMU, are a prime example of a lifestyle trend fueled by the desire for more convenient diversity in the kitchen.
Douglas, the owner of four Seattle restaurants, has marketed a dozen rubs nationally, which he said grew from diners constantly asking him for rub recipes as their palates expanded and their interest in exotic flavors grew out of love for his food.
The chefs’ innovative use of spices, often on television, has helped bring a wider range of herbs and spices to market, as evidenced by one walk through the Erds’ Spice House selection. Many once-obscure Caribbean, Asian and African spices are increasingly available, even at the supermarket.
“We’re Americans and we want everything and we’re going to get it,” Douglas said. “It’s no-holds-barred in food hunting now, so if you’ve been to Australia and had something in the Outback, you want it in your local store.”
Foulkes concurred. “There has been this explosion of choices … rubs imply a hands-on, do-it-yourself, homemade style of cooking,” she said.
“Then, there’s the fact that rubbing a good, balanced spice and/or herb blend into your food really works,” she said. “Not only does it add incredible flavor, but it’s also really easy. So anybody can do it, and chances are they’ll succeed in producing a delicious meal, giving them a sense of achievement and the confidence to do it again and again.”
If you’re a rub novice but want to improvise and experiment, native Chicagoan Ray Lampe (a.k.a. Dr. BBQ) suggested buying some ground beef and trying your new rubs on “mini burgers,” which is cheap and effective because the rub in concert with the meat may taste very different than tasting the rub alone on your finger. Douglas suggested buying some inexpensive fish on the weekend and experimenting with it to get your bearings.
“Don’t overthink it, ” Lampe said. “It’s not some magical thing. It’s just some dry ingredients most of us have in the kitchen. A friend was complaining to me that she had to go out and buy all these fancy ingredients, but now she loves rubs and is buying the spices in bulk. Her experimentation inspired her to use all sorts of different seasonings on meat. “
Knowing that most home cooks have a cupboard full of herbs and spices, those they use and don’t use, Tom Erd suggested working with the spices you have then gradually expanding your palate by adding more unusual ingredients or trying “weird” combinations. His on-the-go concoction, for instance, was “sweet, smoky, salty and hot,” which made for a nice party on the tongue.
Different rubs have different “flavor profiles,” Douglas said. The ingredients also can also dictate the use of indirect, low or high heat. His rubs, for instance, include sugar and sweet spice combinations, many originating in Asia. Because of the sugar content of the rubs, they wouldn’t do well under high heat, he said, because sugar burns more readily. He noted that Paul Prudhomme, conversely, popularized blackening back in the 1980s, but that’s just another name for a dry rub composed of Cajun spices that can be charred and still taste wonderful.
“The easiest thing to do is buy a few different kinds of rubs and see what turns you on rather than just starting from scratch,” Douglas said. “Do you like a flavor profile like mine, which is a little sweeter, or something like a char crust? See what you like and then from there make your own concoctions.”
Improvised twists
Author and musician Jim Tarantino likened new flavor combinations such as those in rubs to improvised twists on classic songs. The Erds recommended his book, “Marinades, Rubs, Brines, Cures and Glazes,” as a good primer in the use of novel flavor profiles. The updated second addition was published this year.
Tarantino, of Philadelphia, believes that, as in music, a sense of “theory” applied over time and with practice makes unusual herb and spice blends “intuitive”–and that doesn’t require culinary training in Paris.
“Some of the flavors that have blown me away have come from street food, barbecue pits, crawfish houses, clam bars, ethnic cafes, taquerias, neighborhood bars and just plain old joints,” he writes.
“Knowing about food theory or kitchen science helps you understand how things work,” he writes. “Once you get a sense of the chemistry, you’ll be able to intuitively substitute or scale up ingredients, troubleshoot recipes and improvise.”
Erd agreed, with one simple caveat: “An ounce of restraint is as valuable as an ounce of spice. You don’t want to ruin your dish, so always taste [the rubs] before you put them on food. If it doesn’t work, you’ve spent 80 cents to two bucks for the stuff you mixed, so just make sure to take notes and next time add a little of this or that to tweak it.”
Patty Erd added that you can never make assumptions about what will work. She recalled that a chef and friend cooked a side of beef with a dense cracked-pepper-and-lavender rub that enveloped the meat. Though she was skeptical, “it was to die for,” she said.
“While it’s always good to experiment with flavors to suit your own taste, there are undeniably certain flavors that just work together,” Foulkes said. “Rosemary and garlic will always be a match made in heaven for a leg of lamb. Cinnamon and apple, sage and pork, thyme and chicken, basil and tomato, lemon and seafood, dill and salmon.
“Use general principles as the base for your recipes, then by all means add your own touch, as long as guests like it too. I love using rosemary, sage or thyme on more robust fish, for example, like salmon or tuna.”
But, “don’t be afraid to experiment and have fun with rubs,” Foulkes said.
She said making rubs is a good reason to get into the kitchen and simply enjoy yourself, especially because spices and herbs remain inexpensive when compared to, say, gasoline:
“Make the time you spend in the kitchen as much about leisure and relaxation as about feeding you and your soul.”
Ready-made rubs
If you’re a novice at rubbing, or just want to see what the experts have concocted as a foundation for making your own, there are plenty of unusual rubs sold in supermarkets and specialty shops.
Here are just a few rubs of distinction:
NoMU: Cape Town chef Tracy Foulkes sells some of the most unusual rubs available. See the NoMu web site at: www.nomu.co.za for a full line of rubs and many recipes featuring rubs. Some NoMu products are sold at Oil and Vinegar in Skokie.
Rub With Love: Seattle chef/restaurateur Tom Douglas’ high-end rubs include recipes on the container. All are sold online at tomdouglas.com. In Chicago, they’re sold at Marshall Field’s (Macy’s); Sur La Table and Fox & Obel.
Dr. BBQ: If you like rubs concocted for barbecue and grilling, Ray Lampe sells a line at drbbq.com. Lampe is a native Chicagoan who has won many awards on the national barbecue competition circuits.
The Spice Hunter: This line of about 300 spices, herbs and mixtures is available online at spicehunter.com, where you also can find recipes. Many supermarkets also carry this line.
The Spice House: Although Tom and Patty Erd only market three concoctions they actually call rubs, they and their staff are available to help customers create rubs on the spot from a large selection of herbs and spices. Web site, thespicehouse.com.
–Rick Asa
Rubs 101
These tips for using rubs on meat are from The Spice Hunter.
Chicken/poultry
Make sure to dry the poultry inside and out before applying the rub. You should use disposable towels to lessen the chance of contamination of other products. Sprinkle the rub on the poultry and rub in a circular motion until you have applied the desired amount. Remember to sprinkle inside the cavity of the bird.
Beef/pork/lamb steaks and chops
Pat dry the steaks and chops. Sprinkle with rub. Firmly press the rub into the meat with the palm of your hand. Stand meat on end and firmly tap on plate to remove loose seasonings.
Beef/pork loin cuts
Rinse and dry loin. Sprinkle rub onto baking sheet. Place loin at one end and firmly roll down baking sheet. Repeat until you have desired amount of spices on meat.
Bulking up
Buying herbs and spices in bulk can save you money, but there’s another asset: Because you can buy as much or as little as you need, you’re assured a fresh stash in the pantry. Here are some stores that sell them by the ounce:
–John B. Sanfilippo & Son operates several stores: Fisher Chicago’s Hometown Nut Store, 906 S. Northwest Hwy., Barrington, 847-382-4202; The Home Economist, 9159 Gross Point Rd., Skokie, 847-674-7252, and 6382 Cass Ave., Westmont, 630-852-0214; J.B. Sanfilippo & Son thrift store, 1717 Arthur St., Elk Grove Village, 847-871-6662; jbssinc.com
–Penzeys Spices, 1138 W. Lake St., Oak Park, 708-848-7772; 235 S. Washington St., Naperville, 630-355-7677; penzeys.com
–The Spice House, 1512 N. Wells St., 312-274-0378; 1941 Central St., Evanston, 847-328-3711; www.thespicehouse.com
–The Spice Merchant and Tea Room, 108 W. Park Ave., Elmhurst, 630-941-7288; www.spicemerchant-tearoom.com
–Whole Foods Market (some locations), wholefoodsmarket.com
–Wild Oats Natural Marketplace, 1111 Chicago Ave., Evanston, 847-475-9492; 500 E. Ogden Ave., Hinsdale, 630-986-8500; wildoats.com
Run-a-round rub
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Yield: 1 cup
This mix, from The Spice House’s Tom Erd, works with beef, pork and poultry.
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup coarse salt
1 teaspoon each: dried minced green onion, hot smoked paprika, dried parsley
1/2 teaspoon each: dried minced garlic, dried minced white onion, allspice
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Combine all ingredients except oil in a fine strainer over a medium bowl; push ingredients through for even coarseness.
Mix in vegetable oil; strain again.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
42 calories, 35% of calories from fat, 2 g fat, 0.2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 7 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 1,444 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
Caribbean dream rub
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Yield: 1 tablespoon
This rub from Tom Erd of The Spice House is light, so it will work well on poultry or fish. A sweeter version will work
well with fresh fruit or ice cream: add a little more sugar, cinnamon and about 1 /3 of a fresh vanilla bean, minced. If you like cardamom, Erd suggests adding a small amount.
2 teaspoons each: Aleppo ground pepper or paprika, sugar, coarse salt
1 teaspoon each: minced, dried lemon peel and orange peel
1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
Stir ingredients together in a small bowl.
Nutrition information per teaspoon:
18 calories, 10% of calories from fat, 0.2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 0.2 g protein, 1,281 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Vanilla spice-rubbed grilled peaches with fresh goat cheese
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 6 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
These are like little warm peach pies–without the crust! You can serve the peaches with vanilla ice cream instead of the goat cheese. Adapted from a recipe by chef Tom Douglas.
Vanilla spice rub:
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 peaches or nectarines
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/4 cup soft fresh goat cheese, about 2 ounces
1. Prepare a grill for medium direct heat. For the rub, put the sugar in a small bowl. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the sugar using the tip of a sharp paring knife. Mix the vanilla seeds with the sugar, using the tips of your fingers to break up clumps. Stir in the pepper and cinnamon.
2. Cut the peaches in half; remove the pits. Brush the cut sides lightly with oil; sprinkle generously with the spice rub. (You will not use all the spice rub. Reserve the remaining for another use.)
3. Place the peaches, cut sides up, on a lightly oiled grill; grill until the peaches are starting to soften and the skin side is marked by the grill, about 3 minutes. Turn; grill until the sugar is nicely golden and caramelized, about 2 minutes. (Move to a cooler part of the grill if they are browning too quickly.) Turn the peaches cut-side up again; place 1 tablespoon of the goat cheese in the center of each. Grill peaches until goat cheese is warmed and just beginning to melt, about 1 minute. Transfer to a platter. Sprinkle the goat cheese with a little more of the spice rub. Serve hot.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
137 calories, 41% of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 6 mg cholesterol, 18 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 52 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Chicago grill rub
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Yield: 3/4 cup
Inspired by Chicago’s famous Italian beef, author Ray Lampe created this rub for beef brisket or chicken.
1/4 cup salt
1 1/2 tablespoons coarsely ground pepper
1tablespoon each: garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, dried basil leaves, dried marjoram leaves, dried oregano leaves
1/2 teaspoon each: sugar, ground allspice
Stir together all ingredients in a small bowl.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
12 calories, 10% of calories from fat, 0.2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 0.5 g protein, 2,327 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
West African tsire rub
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 3 minutes
Yield: 1/2 cup
Jim Tarantino’s easy West African rub is great for improvising. You can swap the peanuts for almonds, cashews or hazelnuts. This works for chicken and turkey breasts or beef and lamb kebabs.
8 whole cloves
1 teaspoon each: coriander seeds, cumin seeds
1/2 cup roasted peanuts
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon each: ground ginger, salt
1/4 teaspoon each: ground allspice, ground red pepper, ground nutmeg
1. Toast the cloves, coriander seeds and cumin seeds in a small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, shaking the pan constantly, about 3 minutes. Remove from pan immediately; cool.
2. Meanwhile, grind peanuts in a food processor until finely ground; place in a small bowl. Place all of the spices in a spice mill or coffee grinder; grind to a coarse powder. Add to peanuts; mix.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
59 calories, 69% of calories from fat, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 176 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Ancho-espresso rub
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Yield: 1 1/3 cups
Author Jim Tarantino has other versions of this recipe that call for replacing the espresso with cocoa powder and replacing the ancho chili powder with 2 tablespoons of grated lemon zest, and replacing the cinnamon with crushed red pepper. This works for chicken breasts or kebabs, beef brisket, ground beef patties, pork tenderloin, pork chops or ribs.
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/3 cup espresso-grind coffee (very fine grind)
1/4 cup ancho chili powder
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon each: onion powder, coarse salt, black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Combine all the ingredients in a spice mill or blender; grind to a coarse powder.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
34 calories, 6% of calories from fat, 0.2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 8 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 306 mg sodium, 0.4 g fiber
