Eight people who will be running Chicago’s top kitchens of the future
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Stephanie Izard Scylla 1952 N. Damen Ave.; 773-227-2995 Just 30, Izard knows seafood like an old salt, hooking a Hawaiian hebi (shortbill spearfish) to sauté and serve atop lump crab with Vidalia onion purée and grilled peaches. |
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Andrew Zimmerman Del Toro 1520 N. Damen Ave.; 773-252-1500 Former rock guitarist now hitting all the right chords with addictive Spanish nibbles like crispy fried chickpeas, pimientos fritos, and bite-size patatas bravas. |
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Alexander Cheswick May Street Market 1132 W. Grand Ave.; 312-421-5547 The guy’s only 32 and his West Town restaurant only a year old, but his Maytag blue cheesecake with a crisp pecan crust, Miner’s lettuce, and apricot ice is an instant classic. |
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Robert Reynaud Vivere 71 W. Monroe St.; 312-332-4040 Reynaud, a former exec chef at Biaggi’s, is mak-ing the most of his time in the big leagues with stylish, robust Italian-like risotto with crab and orecchiette with pork sausage and rapini. |
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Doran Payne Rhapsody 65 E. Adams St.; 312-786-9911 Payne’s got the training (Le Cordon Bleu), the résumé (Taillevent, Four Seasons), and creations that sing-like seared diver scallop risotto on a round of nori with slivers of shaved reggiano. |
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Fred Ramos Gioco 1312 S. Wabash Ave.; 312-939-3870 His artichoke tart with caramelized fennel and green olive emulsion proves Ramos has bloomed with wholehearted Italian after knocking around at Printer’s Row and Pili.Pili. |
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Aaron Browning Koda 10352 S. Western Ave.; 773-445-5632 The Beverly neighborhood finally gets the chef it deserves, and Everest veteran Browning packs them in for roasted corn and crayfish chowder and a double pork chop in oyster mushroom sauce with Parmesan grits. |
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Kate Neumann MK 868 N. Franklin St.; 312-482-9179 Neumann’s American dessert flavors pick up right where her mentor Mindy Segal’s left off: the “What’s Up Peanut Butter Cup?” is a peanut butter mousse with crispy milk chocolate, a peanut caramel tart, and peanut brittle. |
photograph by Andreas Larsson