Pork belly bo ssam: Of all the Asian cuisines (I’m counting any country east of the Ural Mountains), Korea’s might be the most successful in striking that balance of complex and crowd pleasing. The easiest way to persuade newbies to try fermented bean doenjang is by slathering it on a hunk of grilled beef short rib kalbi. But for pure hands-on communal participation, few Korean standards are as satisfying as bo ssam — steamed pork wrapped with lettuce leaves and a host of savory condiments. Arlington Heights’ Ttowa steps up the dish a few notches: Instead of steaming, they braise and chargrill the pork belly, alongside three weeks’ worth of garlic slivers and jalapeno peppers. The traditional bean paste accompaniment kicks up the Scovilles with pureed kimchi, while the tiger shrimp puree lends a briny bite to the pork and lettuce package. I’d also sprinkle some dehydrated rice powder, adding creamy mouth-feel, plus a leaf of the fennel-like perilla (shiso or sesame leaves). For $27, it feeds three comfortably or stuffs two. Ttowa, 161 W. Wing St., Arlington Heights, 847-749-4493, ttowa.net
