Q: I own a 1997 Toyota Corolla with 69,000 miles. Recently, the water pump has had to be replaced. I was told that the drive belt was too tight. That doesn’t sound plausible. Was there a recall on the water pump?
— A.B., Waukegan, Ill.
A: We know of no water pump recall. If a drive belt is too tight, it can place excessive loads on the accessories’ bearings, not only the water pump but the alternator, power steering pump and so on. On cars with a single, serpentine drive belt, tension problems are often due to a failed automatic tensioner pulley. We suggest replacing this part whenever the belt is replaced.
Q: I used API rated SI motor oil in my 2005 Buick LeSabre. Can I use this same oil in my 2012 Chevy Impala?
— H. E., West Chicago, Ill.
A: You should use only oil that meets the newer GM dexos 1 specification. In fact, GM states that it may not warranty engine damage if anything else is used.
Q: I asked my mechanic to check my power steering fluid. He said it should be changed because it is red and it is supposed to be clear. I have a 1998 Lumina with 86,000 miles.
— J.M., Allentown, Pa.
A: Power steering fluid comes in both clear (or nearly-clear amber) and red (or sort of pink). Don’t change it unless it smells burnt or scorched.
Q: My 2006 Ford F-150 with 4.6-liter engine recently turned 60,000 miles. I had the plugs, fuel filter and air filter changed. Before I had the work done, I was getting 20-21 mpg. Now I’m getting 14-15 mpg. Is there something that was missed?
— B.T., Cocoa, Fla.
A: If you are basing you fuel economy on the figure reported by the driver information center, clear it and start anew. Then, get back to us if your mileage has not improved.
Q: Is it safe to ignore a “Service Engine Soon” light on a 2008 Nissan Maxima with 45K miles? I hesitate to ignore the light. Auto Zone categorized the code as part of the emission control system. Nissan wants $116 to tell me what is wrong and will credit the amount towards repair. Our local mechanic used the Auto Zone printout to trace the cause which is a part costing $140 plus an hour labor to install. Any thoughts?
— J.E., Chicago
A: Ignoring the light can lead to other problems, possibly damage to the catalytic converter. The light may not always indicate an emissions control part. A bad spark plug or faulty fuel injector can cause emissions to go up and trigger the light. You didn’t tell us what part is defective, but that really doesn’t matter. Get it fixed.
Q: I wanted to enlighten you on your opinion that Independent repair shops charge less for labor. Most independents charge labor based on repair time manuals that charge 150 percent to 200 percent of the manufacturers warranty times for the same repair. Independents like to claim that they charge less then the dealer based on labor rates when in effect, many times they charge more. I also believe there are many automotive dealers that provide not only competitive repair and maintenance prices but also greater knowledge of the customer’s car and the right equipment to complete the correct repair. I hope you print this as there are many top-quality automotive dealer repair facilities that you have misrepresented.
— B.K., Chicago
A: We have worked many years as an auto technician. Been there. Done that. So let us set some things straight. The book times you refer to are based on a more accurate estimate of how long a job takes, not the warranty time the car companies pay. When the car hits the independent shop, it is often several years old and out of warranty. Stuff has rusted, parts are covered with dirt and grease. It may have been in an accident. There may have been owner neglect that makes the job tougher than the estimated warranty time. Even in the dealership, it is hard to beat the allotted warranty time — even for a tech that has done the same task repeatedly on the same make of vehicle with all the required special tools. In fact, independent shops are filled with former dealership line technicians. We have no animosity for dealerships. All qualified technicians get our sincere respect.
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