Tre Soldi, 212 E. Ohio St., Chicago
tresoldichicago.com, 312-664-0212
Who eats: Businesspeople, tourists, folks who live in the area
Why eat: To get a taste of Rome
Ambience: Bright, airy and simple, the new restaurant is unpretentious and open, bathed in browns, whites and the colors in between. It feels neither presumptuously upscale nor overly casual, managing to strike a happy middle ground. A mural-size picture of Rome dominates one wall, with cobblestones lining another. Plank hardwoods and tiled columns add to the fresh feel.
Dress code: Business casual with plenty of tourists in shorts and polo shirts.
Noise factor: With little to absorb the sound, it can be a bit loud — even when the place is not packed. Soft pop music played, and you could hear plates clinking from the semi-open kitchen. It wasn’t prohibitively loud, but those who are hard of hearing might have some trouble.
Overheard: “I don’t think it does a very good job. It always seems so dry.”
Service: Our server was cheerful, efficient and happy to discuss the menu. The food was well-paced, plates were taken and replaced in a timely manner, and everyone involved seemed sincerely interested in making sure things went smoothly.
Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Full cell
Reservations: Accepted
Menu: Simple, fresh Roman-style Italian
Reliable options: We wanted something light to start, and the Fave ($7) hit just the right note. Served cold, the bright green fava beans were refreshing, dressed in a light lemon dill citronette and topped with crispy pancetta. Like the rest of the menu, nothing about it was overwrought — or over thought. The chef let the ingredients, fresh and well-cooked, do the talking. The Diavola pizza ($13) had a thin, crispy crust topped with a sweet, slightly spicy tomato sauce and copious amounts of Soppressata salami. While other Italian restaurants sometimes pile on the cheese to the point the pizza is overwhelmed, the chef took a light touch with the mozzarella, which was appreciated. The Trota ($16) included two petite pieces of trout, skin on, which were well-cooked. They were paired nicely with a salad of green beans, fava beans, romaine, small yellow tomatoes and a very light vinaigrette. It’s a great summery dish for someone in the mood for a light lunch. The penne ($12) sported perfectly cooked noodles in a spicy arrabbiata tomato sauce, comfort food with a kick.
Expect to pay: $15-$20 per person.
