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Sometimes the best decision is to sit back and let the ingredients do the work, as has been done to exceptional effect at this three-year-old Spanish-style seafood spot. Case in point: the boquerónes. It’s a simple plate of white anchovies, swimming in a lake of peppery Spanish olive oil and dressed lightly with fennel, piquillo peppers, and lots of flaky salt. Served with grilled crusty bread, it’s a prime example of minimal manipulation yielding maximum reward.
