Summer is a favorite season for many reasons, not the least of which are two notable food-related lures: a lush abundance of locally harvested produce and a seemingly endless array of opportunities to have a picnic. Most of the produce won`t be here for a while, but the chances for picnic entertaining begin Memorial Day.
Picnics have a wonderful, romantic air. They are little escapes from our day-to-day routine. The sensuous aspects of food, nature and companionship are the focus, while reality temporarily takes a back seat.
Food, the movable feast part of the picnic, is all-important. People are divided on what to take. There are so many portable grills, we may think burgers and hot dogs are the only choices. But a picnic should be more leisurely, more tuned in to pleasure. It`s much better to prepare food at home and pack it into a basket than flip hamburgers over a hot grill.
Many prominent people in the food industry echo this sentiment.
It`s hard to imagine Craig Claiborne, food editor of the New York Times, perched anywhere near a smoky grill when he`s picnicing. Indeed, a true Southern gentleman, he packs stuffed eggs with caviar and icy cold vodka for most picnics he orchestrates. He already had one picnic this season, on the California coast, where cold roast chicken and a bottle of chenin blanc were added to the eggs and vodka. Don`t expect to find paper plates and plastic utensils. His picnics are outfitted in splendid fashion, with china, silver and linen cloths.
Not everyone is quite as elaborate, yet good taste always triumphs (no one mentioned potato chips and beer).
You`ll find Marion Cunningham, author of ”The Breakfast Book”
(Knopf”), nibbling on vegetable crudites with aioli, a potently garlic mayonaise, hard cooked eggs and boiled potatoes.
Similarly suited is Julia Child, who picnics on potato salad, wine, cheese and homemade pate.
Maida Heatter, author of five dessert books, surprisingly does eat something other than sweets. But it is obvious where her heart lies. She mentions brownies first, as an absolute requisite, then follows up with fruit, cheese and a bottle of wine.
The following menu offers a casual approach to picnicking that offers a lively salad duet with a rich dessert. Fresh fruit is a nice take-along; so, too, is crusty french bread with a selection of cheeses.
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The lively colors and flavors of jambalaya are ”summerized” in this salad version of the New Orleans favorite. It`s perfect for picnics because it can be made ahead of time and packs well.
JAMBALAYA SALAD
Five to six servings
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Grilling time: 5 minutes
Salad:
12 ounces smoked sausage (I use smoked turkey sausage)
6 medium green onions
4 plum tomatoes
6 small stalks celery
1/3 cup tiny fresh or frozen peas (I do not cook fresh peas)
1 pound peeled, cooked shrimp, preferably with tails intact
4 cups cooked white rice
Dressing:
1 seeded serrano or jalapeno pepper
3/4 cup safflower oil
2 1/2 tablespoons each: hot mustard, white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon each: ground cumin, sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1. For the salad, grill the sausage over a hot barbecue grill until hot. Cut into 1/4-inch rounds and place in a large bowl.
2. Cut the green onions into thin rings. Core the tomatoes and remove all the membrane from the insides, leaving only the outer shells. Cut the shells into 1/2-inch dice. Split the celery stalks lengthwise, then cut them crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Add these ingredients to the sausage along with the peas, shrimp and rice.
3. For the dressing, mince the hot pepper in a food processor or by hand. Mix with the oil, mustard, vinegar, thyme, cumin, sugar and salt.
4. Toss the dressing with the salad. The salad can be served immediately or refrigerated overnight. Adjust the seasoning before serving.
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This crisp vegetable salad of zucchini chunks and red pepper juliennes adds a sweet, light counterpoint to the spicy jambalaya salad.
ZUCCHINI AND RED PEPPERS WITH HONEY DRESSING
Six servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Salad:
6 medium zucchini, about 2 pounds
1 medium red onion
2 medium red peppers
2 tablespoons safflower oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon dried dill
Dressing:
1 medium shallot, peeled
1/2 cup safflower oil
3 tablespoons each: cider vinegar, Dijon-style mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons honey
1 large egg white
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. For the salad, cut the zucchini into 1-inch dice. Cut the red onion into 1/2-inch dice. Cut the red peppers into 1-inch by 1/4-inch strips.
2. Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over high heat. When it is hot, add the vegetables, salt and dill. Cook for 1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl.
3. For the dressing, mince the shallot in a food processor or blender. Mix with the oil, vinegar, mustard, honey, egg white, salt and pepper.
4. Toss the dressing with the vegetables. Cool to room temperature before serving. Salad also can be refrigerated overnight. Stir well, drain and adjust the seasoning before serving.
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The puckery flavor of lemon adds a lively note to this rich, pecan-studded cake. Instead of a heavy, sweet frosting, it is glossed over with a fresh lemon syrup that soaks through the top of the cake. It is delicious served plain or with a dish of berries.
LEMON PECAN BUNDT CAKE
One 10-inch cake
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Baking time: 45 minutes
Cake:
3 large eggs, separated
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Grated rind of 1 lemon, removed with a zester or grater
1 2/3 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, softened, cut in 12 pieces
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract
2 1/2 cups cake flour
1 cup toasted pecans, see note
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
Syrup:
1/2 cup confectioners` sugar
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur
2 tablespoons confectioners` sugar, for top of cake
1. Fifteen minutes before baking, place the rack in the center of the oven and heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 12-cup Bundt pan and dust the inside with flour.
2. To make the cake in a food processor (for a mixer, skip to step 4), process the egg whites with the metal blade until foamy, about 8 seconds. With the machine running, pour the lemon juice through the feed tube and process until egg whites are stiff and hold their shape, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
3. Process the lemon rind with the sugar until the rind is as fine as the sugar. Add the egg yolks and butter or margarine and process for 2 minutes, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the work bowl. Add sour cream, liqueur, vanilla and lemon extract and process 10 seconds. Spoon the flour, pecans, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a ring onto batter and pulse 5 to 6 times. Run a spatula around the sides of work bowl, then pulse 1 to 2 more times, until nuts are coarsely chopped. It`s okay if all the flour isn`t quite mixed in. Transfer batter to a large bowl. Skip to step 6.
4. To make the cake in a mixer, mince the lemon rind as fine as possible. Transfer to a large bowl and add the sugar and the butter or margarine. Beat on high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the sour cream, lemon juice, liqueur, vanilla and lemon extracts and mix in on low speed. Mince the nuts and fold them into the batter along with the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
5. Wash and dry the beaters. Put the egg whites in a medium bowl. Beat until they hold soft peaks.
6. Thoroughly mix one-quarter of the egg whites into the batter, then gently fold in the balance.
7. Transfer to prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Make the syrup while it is cooling.
8. For the syrup, cook the confectioners` sugar and lemon juice in a small pan over high heat until smooth and syrupy, 1 to 2 minutes. (Or combine in a 1-cup glass measuring cup and microwave on high (100 percent power) for 1 minute.) Add the liqueur.
9. Invert the cake onto a wire rack placed over a piece of wax paper. Brush the syrup over the cake while both are still hot. Sift confectioners`
sugar over the top, preferably just before serving. –
TIPS THAT WILL HELP YOU PACK THE PERFECT PICNIC BASKET For all of their casual free-spiritedness, picnics need to be well organized, especially from the food end. Packing requires forethought and care, not only so you don`t arrive on the scene without a corkscrew, but also so you don`t send a hapless picnicker home with food poisoning.
– Make a checklist of food and equipment. It sounds ridiculously basic but will prevent leaving home without the main course or the napkins.
– Pack two baskets if possible, one for food and another for beverages.
– Glassware and china should not be packed with the food, to avoid breakage.
– For an extra measure of protection, any jars or plastic containers that hold liquid should be placed in a sealed plastic bag.
– Consider buying refreezable ice packets. Use these, or plenty of ice cubes, to keep food well chilled. If you`re using ice cubes, place them in heavy plastic bags and seal tightly so they don`t leak.
– If you`re using a vacuum bottle for cold foods, chill it before adding food by filling it with ice water for several minutes, then pouring it out. For hot foods, add boiling water first.
– If sandwiches are on the menu, pack all the components separately and assemble them on the spot so they don`t get soggy. Pack the dressing for lettuce salads in a separate container.
– Don`t forget that there may be leftovers. Bring plastic food bags and ties. Be sure to pack several large trash bags.
– Never, never, never leave food in the sun. Keep picnic hampers closed and well cooled with ice. Use aluminum foil wrapped over newspaper for insulation. Label foods.
– Always pack more food than you think you`ll need because appetites are heightened by being outdoors. –
WHERE TO BUY PROPS ON THE COVER. Blue-and-white checked tablecloth, $28.50, from Adesso, Port Clinton Square, 600 Central Ave., Highland Park.
Plaid cloth napkins in basket, $9 each, from Material Possessions, 54 E. Chestnut St.
Yellow plastic tray, $11.95; yellow plastic dishes, $3.25 each; white plastic salad dishes, $2.80 each; red flatware, $1.95 each 5-piece place setting; white serving dish, $11.95; pasta bowl, $13.95; clear plastic pitcher, $16.95; clear plastic tumblers, $3.25 each; magenta and aqua can grippers in basket, $1.95 each; wicker basket, $18.95; white plastic bowl with fruit, $6.96; all from Crate & Barrel.
