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You’ve finally got the hang of pairing wine and food. But, yawn. Even your dumb jock of a former college roommate now drones on about the delightful Sonoma zin he’s discovered. Want to step things up? Try tequila. OK, so it will never replace wine. But tequila offers its own charms. Plus, with only five Mexican states allowed to make the liquor, you have a slightly greater chance of mastering it.

Xel-Ha

710 N. WELLS ST. 312-274-9500

New River North Mexican hot spot Xel-Ha (pronounced “SHELL-ha”) has dozens of tequilas, and servers are happy to discuss them all. But if you want to cut to the chase, General Manager Fermin Romero says you can’t go wrong with Cielo Blanco ($10). The tequila tastes of pure agave fruit mixed with a vegetative crispness that works well with a variety of dishes, but Romero recommends the popular Panuchos De Pato, a shredded duck appetizer with black beans and fiery habanero chiles ($6.95).

Fonda del Mar

3749 W. FULLERTON AVE. 773-489-3748

Co-owner Raul Arreola has big plans for the tequila menu at this Logan Square storefront. This summer, he’d love to knock down a brick wall to stock more bottles. In the meantime, Fonda offers a well-edited selection of 10 tequilas, plus one mezcal. Mexican seafood dishes shine at Fonda, so Arreola recommends trying the Tortitas de Cangrejo ($7), crab cakes drizzled with avocado mayonnaise and topped with chipotle sour cream, with Corralejo Anejo ($10), an incredibly smoky tequila with a peppery touch. He also suggests the cinnamon and fruit notes of the Herradura Anejo ($9) with the garlicky Calamar al Ajillo ($8).

Platiyo

3313 N. CLARK ST. 773-477-6700

The patio at Platiyo is the perfect spot to get to know tequila, and this place has plenty — including lots of tequila cocktails. But if you’re going to drink it neat, try Corazon Reposado ($8.75), a 100-percent agave tequila (meaning no additives have been mixed in) with a chicken dish. The grilled chicken breast with creamy chipotle sauce and asparagus ($14.95) pairs well with the tequila’s spice and oak notes. Charred chicken fajitas ($12.95), with grilled onions, peppers, zucchini and mushrooms, also are a good choice.

Salud Tequila Lounge

1471 N. MILWAUKEE AVE. 773-235-5577

Adam Geenen, Salud’s General Manager and unofficial resident tequila master, recommends pairing any blanco — a tequila that hasn’t been aged — with the Wicker Park restaurant’s ceviche appetizer ($10). He says Haciendo del Cristero ($7.50) makes a great match. “It’s really smooth, with citrus hints and a little bit of floral.” Because lime juice is used to “cook” the rock shrimp and seasonal fish in the ceviche, it’s a natural, easy-to-drink pairing.

Adobo Grill Wicker Park

2005 W. DIVISION ST. 773-252-9990

Who needs dessert wine? At Adobo Grill Wicker Park, they recommend pairing the chocolate tamal ($6.95), which comes with vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate sauce and dried cherries, with Partida Anejo ($10.50). The spirit spends its time in Jack Daniel’s barrels, giving it a hint of bourbon and vanilla. Both Adobo Grills — Old Town and Wicker Park — sport the same menu, but we like the chance of outdoor seating at the latter location.

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METROMIX@TRIBUNE.COM