Boka

At first glance, Boka’s restrained beef tartare looks stingy, as if chef Lee Wolen is holding out on you. Not so. It doesn’t take much to experience the power and finesse of this small plate, made with uniformly diced dry-aged beef and showered with just enough tendrils of cured, shaved egg yolk and carrots to make a statement but still let the beefy flavor shine through. The serving size isn’t a cheat; it’s a reminder to savor every bite.