Though Katmandu`s takes its name from a Bob Seger tune, don`t expect some sort of rock `n` roll diner. Katmandu`s is an ambitious American restaurant in West Dundee, which is as remote to some Chicagoans as the restaurant`s namesake.
What you`ll spend on carfare you`ll make up on the check, however; prices are very reasonable. Entrees average just $11, including salad; most appetizers and desserts are less than $5.
The restaurant`s name more properly belongs to the first floor bar/
nightclub, which features deejay-driven rock `n` roll on weekends. Climb a gorgeous, iron-and-oak spiral staircase to the dining room, and the closest thing to a theme in the handsome decor is the profusion of framed prints depicting cats, from the house to jungle variety.
Originally, the restaurant billed its cuisine as ”American tapas,”
serving grazing-style food. When an audience for that style failed to materialize, executive chef Patrick Crane quickly shifted gears, recasting the menu into a straightforward collection of appetizers, salads, pastas and entrees.
The menu makes room for such timeless dishes as shrimp cocktail, veal Oscar and beef Wellington, but most of what you`ll find is right up to date. Presentation, in particular, is strikingly contemporary, big on color and contrasts.
Good starters include twin crabcakes, agreeably crispy, the sweet crabmeat made even sweeter with bits of onion, leek and tomatoes, atop a rich- tasting buerre blanc. Crispy pizza is very pleasant, topped with grilled chicken, cilantro pesto, tomatoes, jack cheese and just enough diced jalapeno to get your attention. Crab-stuffed wontons benefit from a ginger-laced beurre blanc that adds a little spark to the dish.
The romaine salad accompanying entrees (even pastas, making the $7.95 vegetable primavera quite a bargain) is fresh and crisp; a raspberry vinaigrette was too tart our first visit, nicely balanced the second. The menu lists a few a la carte salads; the Caesar isn`t bad, but don`t spend an extra three bucks on it.
Grilled venison, an occasional entree special, is terrific; the venison emerges full-flavored and tender, coupled with a sweet kahlua cream sauce. Grab it when it`s available. Also worthy was roasted pheasant, done just right and served with a hearty morel mushroom sauce. Grilled sea bass, slightly underdone, had excellent taste and texture, supported by a rich mushroom vinaigrette.
Occasional glitches of execution mar a few dishes. A wild mushroom eggroll paired earthy flavor with a sweet and tangy mustard cream sauce, but the soggy dough was annoying. Steamed mussels tasted good in their white wine and cream sauce, but had gotten rubbery from overcooking. Veal Oscar, on a bed of linguini, featured very good veal, but the crabmeat atop the meat was refrigerator-cold.
The signature dessert is a Jack Daniels derby pie, a caramel pie filled with pecans, walnuts and chocolate chips, topped with whipped cream laced with Jack Daniels. Decadent, but delicious.
Service is very attentive. There was a service error on one visit-our waiter delayed turning in our order, then found the kitchen out of a dish we`d requested. He hurried back with menus, then offered us complimentary glasses of wine to compensate for the added delay. That`s a nice way to handle things. Though occasionally the kitchen`s reach exceeds its grasp, Katmandu`s is a promising restaurant that is only going to get better.
(STAR)
Katmandu`s
98 Main St., West Dundee
Working on the right moves
Rating system
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Outstanding
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Excellent
(STAR)(STAR) Very Good
(STAR) Good
Satisfactory
Unsatisfactory
———-
(STAR) Katmandu`s, 98 W. Main St., West Dundee, 708-428-6262. American. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., closed Sun. Price range:
Appetizers $2.95-$6.95, soups/salads $1.95-$6.95, entrees $7.95-$16.95, desserts $2.50-$3.25; dinner for two of appetizer, soup/salad, entree, dessert, tax and tip: $48. Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa. Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends. Other:
Wheelchair accessible for first-floor dining only.
