Grown-up is a look I rarely rock. The keyboard, the dishes, the weeds don’t much care what I wear. Neither, I suppose, do I. But recently I spent a week out of town, in grown-up gear. I’m good with dress and heels. Adequate at lipstick. Hopeless with hair.
I know my mission: smooth. And my results: crinkle. Which is why I first consult a tutor. Emily hypnotizes my hair silky. I watch, take notes, write up a shopping list: cream, clamps, ceramic brush. I toss these tools in my carry-on and carry on.
Monday evening, I block out one hour for hair. I unpack cream and clamps and brush, which appears to be a rolling pin covered with porcupine quills. I cream, clamp, quill. Blowtorch. Then release. Or try.
I tug, twist, shout. Forty-five minutes later I am sprinting the city sidewalk in dress and heels, brush porcupined to scalp. I locate a hair professional and plead: hurry. She detaches the angry porcupine, and smooths my remaining hairs. I book her Tuesday through Friday.
Which might, I later think, sinking into silky creme brulee, count as extra grown up.
Creme brulee
Prep: 10 minutes
Bake: 35 minutes
Cool: 2 or more hours
Serves: 6
2 cups heavy cream
6 egg yolks
2/3 cup plus 6 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Prep: Fill the teakettle with water and heat.
2. Whisk: Whisk together all ingredients (except 6 teaspoons sugar), just until combined. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a 1-quart measuring cup.
3. Bake: Set 6 4-ounce ramekins in a baking dish. Pour about 1/2 cup cream into each ramekin. Slide into a 325-degree oven. Pour hot water into the baking dish until it rises half way up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until just set, about 35 minutes.
4. Chill: Let custards, still wallowing in their water bath, cool. Pull out of water, dry bottoms, cover tops with plastic and chill completely, at least 2 hours.
5. Caramelize: Sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon sugar. Use a kitchen torch to caramelize sugar. Or set ramekins back in their baking dish, this time surrounding them with ice water. Slide under a hot broiler just until sugar caramelizes, about 1 minute (could be less — watch closely!).
6. Serve: Enjoy right away or chill again before serving.
